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BEHAVIOUR |
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DEALING WITH BAD HABITS
REWARDING BAD HABITS ACCIDENTAL REWARDS BUILT-IN REWARDS distracting your dog away from the problem – if you can make an alternative behaviour more fun than the bad habit, s/he’ll do that instead. This is good for preventing bad habits developing. using avoidance training to make the habit unpleasant and actively discourage it. This is useful if the behaviour is already established, but it's a last resort because it doesn’t teach your dog a more desirable alternative. AVOIDANCE/INTERRUPTION
Avoidance or aversion training (other than spraying your belongings with a nasty taste to discourage chewing) is best used under the guidance of a behaviour expert. Discuss it with me, or a trainer local to you, before trying it on your dog. Re-print courtesy of - dog-behaviour.com Debbie Waller |
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BUSTER CUBE Readers who are lucky enough to have the very first issue of Dogs Today will remember the True Case History of two Labradors, Bruno and Tyson, at my local thatched pub, The Compasses. In his boredom, Bruno had taken to chewing boxes of matches and had nearly set the place alight with a box of Swan Vestas! Bruno has moved on now with the former landlords, and, sadly, Tyson was shot by a trigger-happy farmer, but, after a long period of closure, there are new landlords at The Compasses and the happy old doggie days have returned. Two new Labradors are resident at the pub. The reason there are two is because Basil, the first dog, also had problems adjusting to periods of being on his own during opening hours. The arrival of Jasmine helped, but in many respects, poor Sarah and Tony doubled their problems. Suddenly, there were two dogs chewing, two dogs pacing up and down and two dogs whining for some action, despite the longest of daily walks through nearby woods. No wonder Sarah and Tony ordered in Hooch alcoholic lemonade instead of the Two Dogs brand! Basil started to show the classic signs of separation anxiety, a common problem in young dogs. A dog often demonstrates his worry at being left alone by barking and howling to attract his owners back. He may also destroy furniture to work off the adrenalin produced when dogs get upset or excited. In very severe cases, dogs can lose bowel and bladder control. They may pace in a stereotypical pattern, wearing a circle out on the carpet, or even start to mutilate themselves by chewing at their feet. Some can become aggressive, but things are not usually quite so bad in puppies and young dogs. DEPENDENT DOGS LOCK IN I also asked Sarah and Tony to switch off any form of contact for Basil and Jasmine for 10-15 minutes before they went down to open the bar and not to pause to say goodbye as they left, as this would simply heighten the dogs' expectations of being able to keep them at home. Sarah and Tony were asked to feed and exercise the dogs before that switch-off period and settle them on their beanbags by the radiator, with the radio playing gently. All this was more precautionary than anything else. The main problem wasn't so much separation anxiety as boredom in a very lively, active pair of young dogs. Playful, active dogs need a constant flow of stimulation and activity, both mental and physical, and can't always be expected to sleep like babies (where did that expression come from? My babies don't sleep)! Basil and Jasmine needed something to keep them occupied when left alone and it was with great delight that I was able to try out a fabulous new toy from Denmark called the Cube CANINE CUBISM The Cube appeals to dogs' basic foraging instincts and keeps them actively playing for as long as they are interested - which is usually until it is empty and doesn't rattle when rolled or pushed. Even little dogs benefit from it because it is light enough for them to nose and paw around; in fact, dexterity is more important than strength when it comes to Cube-play. It really did work wonders for Basil and Jasmine, who are now given their Cubes as Sarah and Tony go downstairs to open the bar. There's not so much as a sorrowful glance anymore, no whines and no destructiveness; in fact, Basil and Jasmine look positively delighted at the prospect of being given their Cubes and can't wait for opening hours! The only thing Sarah and Tony have to remember is to subtract the food that went into the Cube from their dogs' daily rations or they could end up with two rather tubby Labs. SQUARE MEAL Re-print courtesy of Peter Neville |
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THE KONG - Basic Ingredients for the "Perfect" Dog
Today it is a rare household that can provide all of the required ingredients for the "perfect" dog. Don't despair if your dog is lacking some of these ingredients! There is another recipe for the "almost perfect" dog. CHECK IT OUT! RECIPE FOR THE "ALMOST PERFECT" DOG It is reassuring to know that the ingredients for an "almost perfect" dog are available to any responsible dog owner. You can enjoy the wonderful benefits of an "almost perfect" dog. Here's the recipe:
Missing ingredients result in behaviour problems. OVER 60% OF DOGS IN SHELTERS ARE THERE AS A RESULT OF BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS. If you are experiencing a behaviour problem with your dog, DON'T DESPAIR - MOST ARE CORRECTABLE! If your dog has a clean bill of health, contact your professional trainer and/or animal behaviourist. PREVENTION IS ALWAYS THE BEST CURE FOR BEHAVIOUR PROBLEMS! Lack of training and physical and mental understimulation (boredom) are primary causes of misbehaviour. They can be easily prevented by enrolling in an obedience class and using Kong Dog Toys for healthy physical and mental exercise. Kong Dog Toys are widely used and recommended for therapy and prevention of understimulation, boredom, separation anxiety and other behaviour problems. Following are some simple ways Kong can be utilized to promote good behaviour in your dog. "TAKE THIS KONG AND STUFF IT!" or PUT YOUR DOG TO WORK Kong Dog Toys are uniquely shaped, extraordinarily durable rubber dog toys with a hollow center which can be filled with food or treats. Kong's unpredictable bounce lures most dogs into an on-going game of JAWROBICSÆ chase, catch and chew. Unstuffing Kongs has become a very popular and important activity because it can keep dogs contently busy for hours while they crunch up and lick out the food nuggets and tasty treats (reward/pay) stuffed inside. KONG STUFFING TECHNIQUES Here is one example of Kong stuffing: STEP ONE: It is important for dogs to succeed at their "work". Make it easy to remove the kong stuffing at first. AS THEY BECOME MORE EXPERIENCED, YOU MAY WANT TO MAKE THEIR JOB MORE CHALLENGING - HERE'S HOW:
KONG HUNTING Hide stuffed Kongs indoor and/or out. The hunt is great fun and rewarding. IMPORTANT! a. Provide stuffed Kongs randomly so they won't always be associated with you leaving. b. If your dog is unstuffing several Kongs per day, you should appropriately reduce the amount of bowl feeding. c. CLEAN KONGS THOROUGHLY AFTER EACH USE! Dishwasher is recommended. Your dog's job will last until the Kongs are unstuffed. You can keep your dog "working" all day if you provide enough stuffed Kongs!
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OVERCOMING SEPARATION ANXIETY
Does your dog start pacing the moment it thinks you are going to leave the house without it? Is its behavior less than ideal when left alone? If so, your dog may be suffering from "Separation Anxiety". This is a compilation on what I have learned from by experiences with my dog, Sadie, who was diagnosed with Separation Anxiety (SA). While the information I have compiled is not original, I became very interested in understanding the science behind what we were told to do to resolve her issues. Having done this, I hope that this article will help others find their way through their dog’s SA problem and discover the wonderful animal just waiting to be freed from their fears. We adopted Sadie from the local humane shelter, where she had been ‘dumped’ outside the shelter. Therefore, I know none of her history, but from appearances and examination by my veterinarian, she appeared to be a healthy dog that was well cared for. She was ‘the perfect dog’ until we left her alone. Then she jumped and scratched on the doors and woodwork, soiled in the house, whined, howled, and paced furiously. We know this because we video taped her after we began to see the evidence of a problem when we left her. Sadie is a beagle/spaniel mix and is approximately two to three years old. She is a very loving dog and it is her general nature to try to please. The first step should always be a thorough examination by your veterinarian to rule out illness or disease. Certain behaviors, such as inappropriate soiling may be a medical implication. Also, a dog that is not healthy may exhibit destructive behaviors simply due to stress on its system from lack of proper nutrition or ailments. After a thorough examination of Sadie, my veterinarian referred us to Dr. Andrew Leuscher and Julie Shaw, RVT at Purdue University’s Animal Behavior Clinic. They laid out our initial plan and were able to answer questions that arose along the way. Selecting the right behaviorist is very important, as bad advise and adverse programs still exist. A site that I feel lists good information on how to make this selection is www.webtrail.com/petbehavior/guide.html While, for the most part, I found their recommendations worked for us, I did read an enormous amount of information in order to understand why we were doing what we were doing. I read numerous articles by searching the Internet for "separation anxiety in dogs". I studied several excellent books. "The Culture Clash" by Jean Donaldson explains basic obedience training and gives an excellent explanation of dogs, their behavior and the way dogs process information. "The Dog Who Loved Too Much" by Dr. Nicholas Dodman, deals with behavior problems in an easy to read format. I also joined two Internet egroups. I tried to keep an open mind while searching for answers, ascertaining if the material seemed logical and analyzing Sadie's behaviors to try to understand what her individual situation was so that I could adapt accordingly. One of the egroups, dogbehaviour, was particularly informative and helpful. The members were able to relate their personal experiences in a straightforward manner that was practical and beneficial. One member suggested "talking" to Sadie, and while that may seem a little odd, I do feel that it was a great asset to us that I didn't come across in my other reading. I am sure that Sadie didn't understand my ‘words’, but I feel she was able to find reassurance in my body language and voice tone. This interaction seemed to take some of the pressure off of both of us. Perhaps the best thing about finding a support group such as this is knowing that you are not alone, hearing success stories, seeing the same picture from another angle, and all of the encouragement that you receive. Separation anxiety in its broadest terms means, "anxiety brought on by separation from a dog’s person or people". The behaviors include barking, whining, howling, chewing, digging, scratching at confinements, self-mutilation, inappropriate elimination and other destructive actions. In my opinion, in order to determine if SA exists, two criteria must be met:
Most of the behaviors displayed in SA dogs are normal dog behaviors. For example, if the dog chews on furniture when you are gone, but by watching the tape there is no indication that the dog is panicked because you left it, then the criteria has not been met. Instead, the dog is chewing out of natural behavior. Puppies chew because chewing feels good on their teeth. Adult dogs may chew out of boredom and having no appropriate place to direct the chewing, learn that they can "get away" with it when their owner is gone. If you are able to establish a diagnosis of SA, modifications need to be made in both your behavior and your dog’s behavior. The listing includes the elements we used with Sadie. They are based on our original plan that the behaviorist recommended and supported by most of the information I have read. While some plans differ, this is what we found worked for us. I feel that one thing that helped us achieve our results so quickly was that we modified some instructions along the way. For example, when given a reasonable time I saw that physically inhibiting Sadie from following me did not appear to be working, I started letting her follow. I did not encourage her to follow or reward her for doing so, but giving her this freedom turned out to be an enormous turning point in our journey, as I began to realize that for her, confinement made the situation worse. While not all dogs adopted from a shelter or rescue exhibit SA, they are a large percentage of the dogs that are treated for SA. Therefore, if you adopt, from the very beginning, assume that the dog may have SA. There is nothing in the SA behavior modification that will "ruin" the dog if SA isn’t an issue, but don’t even give the dog one day to develop behaviors that you will have to change should the find that SA does exist. This was the biggest mistake I could have made. Sadie had a week of me reinforcing her dependence on me before I realized that the SA existed. It is especially important for SA dogs to be disciplined because it takes any pressure off of the dog to be "the leader" and teaches them self-control. Abandonment is not the only basis for SA to develop. Age and health changes; changes in your home life including death, divorce, or schedules; poor socialization; "puppy mill" dogs, and other dramatic life events may bring about SA. There is information to suggest that dogs, just as people, may have a pre-disposition towards the problem. Many dogs that don’t suffer from SA are "Velcroä Dogs", meaning they follow you everywhere, but SA dogs almost always exhibit this behavior. That is where the SA comes from—the person that they have over-bonded with. I believe that being in the shelter for eight days brought on Sadie’s SA and then she over-bonded with me because I was the one who opened the gate to give her "freedom". Feeling sorry for her, I didn’t establish rules right from the beginning. Not clearly establishing the dog’s place in his new family simply confuses him. Pampering the dog is the worst thing you can do. You need to provide structure and consistency along with your love. Downplay departures. Ignore the dog for 15-20 minutes before leaving and after returning home. Giving the dog attention before leaving makes our leaving all that much more emotional for the dog. If we make a fuss upon returning, then the dog excitedly anticipates our return. The goal here is to even out the peaks and valleys the dog experiences while being left alone, so that the dog is better able to cope. Initially, Sadie started getting nervous as soon as she realized we might be leaving and was totally out of control with joy when we returned home. As we started practicing downplaying departures and returns, she was much more controlled when we returned home and she is finally to the point that she is relaxed within a minute or two of our return. She remained anxious when she anticipated us leaving for quite some time, but is finally able to go lie down now within a minute of our departure. Select a toy to give only when you leave the dog. It will become his "special" toy and since he doesn’t have access to it any other time, will look forward to having it. A Kong stuffed with goodies works well and will keep him entertained for quite a while. (See article above). A Buster Cube might also capture his attention. Don’t be discouraged if the dog ignores this toy initially. Sadie is just now learning to play with toys and didn’t take an interest in her Kong until later in our modification. Some sources recommend giving the dog a "cue" that you are leaving and will return. The "special toy" is, in some ways, a cue to your departure, but while it is a signal, it can also become a much anticipated "reward" type of signal. I tried both playing a tape recording of my voice and leaving a radio on, but did not see any change in Sadie’s behavior when left alone with these. Some people say something to their dog on the way out of the door such as "I’ll be back". It is my opinion, based on my observations, that this has no meaning to a SA dog, unless the habit was established as a puppy and before the SA. Practice obedience in two to three short daily sessions. The sessions need not be longer than five or ten minutes initially. Teach sit, down, come, and stay. Everything else aside, all dogs should be able to obey these basic commands. I used clicker training with Sadie and we both found it to be great fun, but any type of positive obedience training will work. Your ultimate goal is to be able to put the dog in a 30- minute stay and leave the room. Obedience and the stay in particular, are fantastic confidence builders for the dog. Stays need to be developed over time. Initially, work in a controlled environment, like your living room. Start with one minute, then two minutes, five, ten, etc. until you reach 30. If the dog stays reliably at five minutes, but not at 10, you have progressed too fast, go back. When the stay is reliable at 30 minutes, go back to one minute and try walking out of the room. Continue to build on that. When adding distractions or changing where you are practicing the stay, start slowly again and build. While this sounds like a lot of work, in just six short weeks, Sadie was reliably doing a 30-minute stay in our front yard with me out of her sight. What this stay does for the SA dog is to help it over-come the anxiousness it feels when wanting to break the stay, learn that it is "OK’ when left by itself, and it is an enormous confidence builder for the dog. Exercise. How much exercise the dog needs depends on the breed, age and health of the dog. This shouldn’t even be considered as something extra you have to do for SA treatment. Healthy dogs should be getting sufficient exercise as part of the normal routine, but it becomes even more important with SA dogs. Include two 30-minute walks per day and vary the places you walk the dog. This stimulates his mind with new scents, sights, and exposure to various dogs and people. You can also incorporate your obedience training into your walks. We practice sit/stays and come. Fetch is good exercise if that appeals to your dog. We do agility once a week and I have some makeshift agility equipment in the yard that we use between sessions. A play session with other dogs is good exercise and helps to develop confidence and social skills. Not only have our walks and agility training helped keep Sadie’s energy level under control, they have given her confidence in herself. Ignore the dog for a minimum of three weeks on a casual basis. Don’t let the dog initiate any attention. The first day we did this I took it way too figuratively. Sadie became physically ill because we literally pretended that she wasn’t there. My opinion is that for a dog that can’t stand for you to be out of its sight, you cannot go to this extreme. What I learned is that you can have a lot of interaction with your dog including petting and praising without it being at the dogs initiative. You can get some treats and teach tricks, practice obedience, or take the dog for a walk. This modification was the hardest for us to get used to, since we have always let our dogs initiate attention, but I also feel that it was paramount in Sadie learning she could stand on her own four legs and knowing she would be fine even when we weren’t home. Since we could only interact with Sadie when we were doing training or exercise, without actually knowing what we were doing, we had begun to practice "Nothing in Life is Free" (NILIF). NILIF was devised by Dr. Victoria Voith. It is a behavior modification that is sometimes used with aggressive dogs, to teach them that you are in charge and not them, in order to curb aggression. While we weren’t dealing with an aggressive dog, we did feel that Sadie needed to know that we were in charge so that all pressure would be off of her. For some dogs, anxiety at being left alone increases because the dog feels that it must "take care of the house". If the dog understands that you are in control, then the safety of the family and house is not the dogs responsibility. NILIF worked with our SA problem because it teaches the dog restraint and self-control since the dog must "earn" everything it wants. You simply make the dog do something, a trick or obedience command, before it gets anything. So you can use NILIF constantly. When you feed the dog, let him out, get ready for a walk or a play session, anything else the dog wants it doesn’t get until it does what you ask of it. An added benefit is that you will end up with a dog that doesn’t bolt out of the door, since he is accustomed to sitting until you release him before being let out. Practice desensitization and planned departure. If locking another house door is the "trigger" that starts the anxiety when you get ready to leave, then lock the door relentlessly until the dog no longer cares, then move on to the next "trigger. Go through all the "triggers" until you get no reaction from the dog. (You can work on some of this while doing other things. For example, keys can be picked up and jingled while you are cooking.) Planned departure is where you go through all the steps that you would normally do before leaving, but don’t actually leave. Initially you will simply step out the door then step back in. Build on time as you see your dog being able to let this happen without getting upset. The whole point of planned departure is to be "back" before your dog can exhibit anxiety signs. It is important that you use some sort of signal that this is just "practice", such as leaving the television on, so that the dog disassociates actual departures from these sessions. Anti-anxiety medication is available as both traditional medication and homeopathic remedies. The prescription drug of choice at present is Clomicalmä . Any responsible behaviorist or veterinarian will require a complete physical and blood work-up before beginning the treatment. From my reading, it appears that European countries may tend to use Holistic treatment more than we do here in the states and the participants in one egroup that I subscribe to seem to achieve the desired results with alternative medicine. Sadie was on the Clomicalmä because that is the drug our behaviorist recommended. Be advised that you will probably not notice any significant effects of this drug for approximately three weeks. With Sadie, it was about three and one-half weeks when we noticed a dramatic decrease in her anxiety. In one of the egroups that I am in, there were numerous posts from people who had used the Clomicalmä . Most felt that it had made a momentous difference in their dog’s anxiety, a few noticed no improvement, but I found no negative posts regarding health concerns. As with any drug, I feel that it is important to closely monitor the patient for possible side effects. It is crucial to understand that the drug alone does not cure the SA. It simply helps to reduce anxiety so that the dog can learn more quickly and with less mental stress to the dog. What typically doesn’t work is:
The expectation behind behavior modification is to build the dogs’ confidence and independence. As the dog begins to gain these, the anxiety of being left alone decreases and is replaced with positive images. Once the dog starts exhibiting brief periods of relaxation when left, the effect beings to "snowball". Because the negative images are being replaced with positive images it is self-reinforcing. In an ideal situation, the dog would never be left alone until the modification was complete. Thus, replacing the negative images would take less time and work. It is important that you reinforce the behavior modification throughout the dogs’ lifetime. While you don’t need to continue with planned departures and desensitization, continue to downplay the departures/returns, continue to practice basic obedience skills, especially the stays, maintain sufficient exercise, and follow the NILIF routine. Don’t let the dog relapse into dependence on you or losing his newly found self-esteem. I now realize that there are dogs with far worse SA than Sadie had, but when you love your dog and watch it suffer, there is no such thing as a mild case. Not only is the dog miserable, but so is the owner because you feel trapped in your house and scared and guilty when you leave the dog. Try to keep a positive attitude while working on the behavior modifications. Patience is key here. Use praise plentifully. Remember, you are trying to make the dog "feel good about itself" and become confident of its’ ability to function without you. The joy that you feel when you first know that the dog is going to be ‘ok’ with your being gone is one of the best feelings you will ever experience! EPILOG I think it is important to keep my article on SA a work in progress, as time always brings changes. About three weeks after writing the original article, Sadie started showing signs of regression. It started out as little things, such as the rug by the back door being shoved up against it when we would come home. Coming home to a dog that was extremely excited and jumping all over. Until finally, one day, we recorded her again. She was jumping on the front door, leaving slobber marks all the way up the glass, tearing through the house from one door to the other, and unable to lie down for longer that a minute or two. The good news was that she wasn't digging at the doors and woodwork; wasn't howling; and wasn't eliminating in the house as she had in the beginning. Initially I was very frustrated and felt like all we had done was wasted, but then I became determined not to let this undermine all the progress we had made. So I sat back and started analyzing what I knew. She definitely wasn't as anxious as she had been before we started the behavior modification but was not relaxed like she was while on the Clomicalmä . Then it hit me. Since the Clomicalmä takes about three weeks initially to start working it was reasonable to assume that it would take about three weeks to totally get out of her system. We had weaned her off slowly, but it was possible I was seeing some "withdrawal". It also seemed reasonable that since the drug suppresses the anxiety, at the point that it was totally out of her system, she would now feel any remaining anxiety and have to deal with it without the help of the drug. We were still using most of the behavior modifications, but had slacked off some on the intensity of our obedience sessions. So we went back to work. Of course, she knows her commands well because we use them daily in NILIF, but I had gotten pretty lax about doing any long stays. So that was first. We went back to a 30-minute stay once a day. Next I had to find a way to make her Kong irresistible again, so that she would fill her most anxious moments (those within the first 15 minutes or so after leaving) with the desire to get all the goodies in the Kong. I put a few small pieces of lunchmeat between the layers of kibble and other treats and that took care of that problem! She would stand there and watch me fill it. When I was finished and getting around to leave, she was guarding the counter where it was, lest I forget to give it to her! So when we are ready to leave and she gets the Kong, she has a choice--follow us or start enjoying her Kong. She has been choosing the Kong. I believe she actually looks forward to us leaving because she wants that Kong so much! Now she is rather impatient about getting it once she knows that is what is going to happen, which is as it should be! Another thing I realized, was that if we left in staggered schedules, she was not nearly as anxious as when we both left at the same time. As a matter of fact, she was relaxed enough with me leaving for work that she never even budged from the couch to follow me to the door. So when we were going somewhere together, I would leave before my husband. I would put the garage door up and back the car out, then shut if off and he would come out in about five minutes. Initially, I tried just going out into the garage and waiting, but it didn't fool her. She knew I was still home. What her different behaviors indicated to me was that what anxiety remained was something she could control, if experienced in moderation. We could control that moderation by not "pulling the rug out from under her" by both leaving together. These minor adjustments seemed to have worked, because she is again doing well when left alone. As a matter of fact, she is napping back in the bedroom while we are gone and we get all the way in the house before that little nose appears! I should also add that her personality has changed dramatically over the course of the five months we have had her. Initially, she was very insecure, submissive, and showed no interest in toys. Simultaneous to us weaning her off of the Clomicalmä , she became a very energetic dog. For a few weeks she was literally "wild dog Sadie"! She had more energy than she or I knew what to do with! She also discovered her toys and how to play with them during this time. Actually, it was almost like a dog going through adolescence…like she was experiencing the joys of life for the first time! It would seem that now her personality has leveled out a bit. While she still has a good amount of energy, it is what one would reasonably expect to see, not such an exaggerated form. She seems to have a good balance of confidence and submissiveness--enough confidence to stand on her own four feet and enough submissiveness to be a pleasure to train. Of course, the one thing that has remained the same is the sweet, loving dog that she always has been! Copyright ã 2000 by Karen Sollars. All rights reserved. No part of this article may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by an information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the author. |
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FIREWORKS AND THUNDER STORMS
PEOPLE AND DOGS SOCIETY (PADS) Many dogs are afraid of loud noises like thunder storms or fireworks. It is often possible to help them deal with their fears, though whether you get success or just an improvement depends on the dog's character and experience plus the reasons for its fear. These ideas may not be the definitive answer to your dog's worries, but they are designed to give you somewhere to start. 1. As with most problems it's best to start at the vets. A
noise-sensitive reaction can be due various medical conditions,
including the dog's hearing being either super-sensitive or - odd though
it sounds - not very good. If his ears are sensitive the noise may sound
loud enough to hurt. If he doesn't hear much, a sudden noise that he can
hear makes him jump. If he does have a medical problem, and if it's
curable, this might be all you need. 2. Try getting him used to firework/storm noises using recordings and
so on. The BBC often publish tapes of sound effects which include
thunder and fireworks, or you can get them from http://members.farmline.com/stress/sounds.htm. 3. If he becomes afraid, be careful how you react. Most people either
get irritated with what they see as an unreasonable reaction on the part
of the dog, or they offer sympathy and fuss. In either case he may be
misunderstanding your motives. 4. When you know there is likely to be a storm or fireworks, pull the curtains in one room so he has a dark corner to hide in. Put some background noise on (TV/radio) so it's not complete silence between the bangs, and give him attention whenever he shows any signs of coping and behaving calmly. 5. If he's very bad, and the situation is short term, your vet might feel that tranquillisers or alternative remedies like herbal or homeopathic treatments will help. Make an appointment to chat about this. 6. If none of this helps, the best options are to speak to one of our advice lines, or call in a one to one trainer or behaviourist for some personal advice. Debbie Waller
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REHABILITATING A FEARFUL AND AGGRESSIVE BORDER COLLIE
Three years ago, I rescued a 14-month-old Border Collie from family members. Jack had several very severe behavioral problems. Unfortunately, this 14-month-old Border Collie had wound up in two homes that were totally wrong for him. The people who adopted Jack didn’t have a clue about what the needs were of a BC. He was born just at the end of the "Babe" era when people had fallen in love with a Disney movie about a Border Collie on a farm who talked to the animals and helped a pig learn to herd sheep. This in itself is proof that people need to research a breed before deciding on adopting any dog. It’s not only necessary for people to get the right dog for their lifestyle; but, it becomes a disservice to the dog if he’s adopted into the wrong family who are ill-equipped to deal with instinctive and hard-wired behaviors of a specific breed of dog. I’d like to share with you some of the things that I did to help this very complicated dog overcome some of the behaviors that he developed as a result of being placed with the wrong humans. Border Collies are herding dogs. They have a natural instinct to want to chase anything that moves quickly and to nip the heels of anything that they chase. Unfortunately, in the home environment, what usually runs fast are children. BC’s get into serious trouble most often because they’ve been outside with children who are playing and running with arms flailing, and screaming. This is a very exciting situation for any Border Collie, and what generally will happen is that the dog will chase the children, and nip them on their ankles. He does this in order to control "his flock." That’s when the trouble starts. Owners get mad at the dog for doing this, the neighbors get mad because their kids are getting nipped in the ankles, and then the dog gets punished for behaving "aggressively." I know that my two granddaughters were a major factor in creating aggressive behavior in this dog because they slapped him on the head, they screamed at him, they forcefully took things out of his mouth and away from him, and their parents also physically punished the dog for his inappropriate behaviors with the children. The end result of these punishments was the creation of an aggressive dog. Jack learned that nipping, snarling and food and object guarding worked to gain control of his "pack." Anytime someone tried to take a toy away from him, he "punished" them by biting them. He succeeded in this behavior long enough for a habit to develop, and then the family decided that they couldn’t handle the dog anymore. My husband and I received a call and my daughter-in-law stated that if we couldn’t take the dog, then they were going to take him back to the shelter where they’d originally adopted him as a 3-month-old puppy. We agreed to take the dog to see if we could provide a disciplined, but structured environment for him on our horse farm. One of the major problems Jack had was that he had generalized a fear of most humans. I had to help him get used to people being around him BEFORE he got so stressed that he’d begin to snarl, growl or try to bite. In the first few months after Jack’s arrival at our farm, I discovered that he was severely hand-shy. He refused to allow me to brush him, clip his nails, medicate his ears, or pet him vigorously. Unbeknownst to me when we adopted Jack, I was going to have to put him through an extensive program of behavioral modification with the help of a professional trainer. The dog’s diagnosis involved several things which included fear aggression, control-complex aggression, and severe hand-shyness. These were difficult and challenging times. With her help, my trainer was able to make great strides in desensitizing Jack to handling, and she taught me to use food exchanges to help the dog with his guarding problem. I think the most challenging thing that I had to work on was Jack’s fear of humans. Somehow I had to get the dog over feeling that everyone was out to physically harm him. I decided to take this part of his training on myself, and it became the most challenging and rewarding activity of my life. So, I’d like to share with you how I was able to get my Border Collie to accept humans in his presence by socializing him using clicker training. First, I purchased a Gentle Leader Collar. This collar fits on the dog much like a horse’s halter fits on a horse. The function of this collar is to give the handler absolute control over the dog’s head; a dog cannot lunge at someone if his head is not facing that person. So, when Jack wore the collar, I did not have to worry that he’d pull on the leash if he spooked at a person who was walking past us. This allowed me to relax. You want to be as relaxed as possible when working with a fearful dog because if the dog senses that you’re nervous, he will also become nervous. Another important factor that you must pay attention to is the leash. ALWAYS keep a loose leash on a dog. When a leash is pulled tightly, it will actually make the dog aggressive; a dog will tend naturally to pull against a tightened leash. The tighter the leash, the harder the dog will pull against it. So, the handler must make sure there is a decent bend in the leash at all times while walking along. NEVER pull a dog in too close to you. This will signal the dog that there is definitely something out there to be scared of because his handler is trying to keep him away from it. The first time I took my dog to a park, I came home with a migraine headache. My poor dog, I’m sure, had one too! But... we both learned a lot that day. We set out on our walk at the worse time of day - lunch time. This park was in the very center of an industrial area. People who worked in the area were out walking during their lunch break, mothers were walking along with their babies in strollers, and lots of young children were kneeling and playing around the lake where the ducks and swans were swimming. We didn’t walk ten feet before a group of strollers came walking toward us. I heard Jack start to give off a quiet growl, and I could feel the vibration of that growl through the leash. Because the path was not terribly wide, I pulled him off to the side of the road, and turned him around to face these people as they walked past us. He surprised me because he did stop growling at that point. I praised him to the heavens because this was a very difficult thing he was doing, and I recognized that. When the pathway cleared, we resumed our walk and it didn’t take too long for more people to approach us. Again, I pulled off to the side of the path, and Jack could see the people walk in front of us and then pass. More praise! At one point, I was standing with Jack and a jogger stopped to talk to me about how beautiful he thought my dog was. Then he asked me about the Gentle Leader he was wearing. I was happy to give him information about the use of this collar, but when he wanted to approach the dog to check out the collar, I told him that my dog was scared and was now growling at him. He said, "He is? I can’t hear him growling." Neither could I, but I was feeling vibrations again. I couldn’t praise my dog at this point because he was showing a lot of nervousness with this gentleman, but I just ignored his behavior and we kept on walking. The pathway at this park is exactly one mile. By the time we ended our walk, I felt like we’d walked twenty miles. However, I have to say that I noticed that my dog was "getting into the routine" of getting off to the side of the road and watching everyone. He didn’t seem quite as tense at the end of our walk as he was when we initially started out. This was good! The next time Jack and I ventured out, I chose a different park that had a much wider path and was not quite as crowded as the first we’d gone to. I decided to bring my clicker with me on this second walk (don’t know what a clicker is? Go to www.clickersolutions.com for information. By using the click and treat method, Jack knew exactly what behavior I was asking of him. So, this time we were able to stay on the pathway when people walked toward us. When the dog made no sounds and he calmly walked along with me while the other people were passing us by, I immediately clicked the clicker and gave him an extremely high-value treat (leftover roast beef). This is one of the greatest positive reinforcement training techniques around today. One of the advantages to clicker training is that it produces pretty quick results. By the second time I walked Jack in this new park using the clicker, he began to drool whenever someone came walking toward us! I found this to be totally unexpected and a wonderful side-effect. Socializing my dog meant teaching him to accept the presence of visitors to my home. When my visitors settled down, I asked them if it would be okay if I brought Jack out to meet everyone. I kept him by my side on leash until I knew he was relaxed. At this point, I trusted him enough to allow him to go and sniff these people (his favorite thing in the world to do), and then I brought him back to sit by me again. I gave everyone some treats and asked that they toss them on the floor so the dog could go and get them. This was a great confidence builder for Jack. He started to realize that visitors to the house = great food treats. The better he got at behaving well, the more freedom I was able to give him, but I continued to use my clicker. As long as his behavior was calm and appropriate, I was then allowing him to approach my visitor to be hand-fed. Each time he went over to someone in a friendly manner, I clicked him, and my visitor fed him his treat. Jack has been with me for over three years now. His progress has been amazing, but it’s been a lot of work requiring a ton of patience. There are many ways to go about desensitizing fearful dogs; I’ve just given you one way that proved very successful. For those of you who are struggling through this problem with your own dogs, I’d like to recommend that you read a book entitled, THE CAUTIOUS CANINE... How to Help Dogs Conquer Their Fears, by Dr. Patricia B. McConnell. This book can be purchased directly at www.dogwise.com I hope that anyone who reads this article will think twice before adopting any dog whose breed is unfamiliar to them. Write down all the things that you want in a dog that will compliment your life. Do you want an active dog who needs a great deal of exercise? Do you want to do agility, flyball or other sports activities with your dog? Or, do you just want a couch potato, a laid-back pet dog who will just keep you company and not require you to do much except love and protect him? So many dogs today wind up in shelters for the very reason that people don’t know anything about the breed prior to adopting their dogs. I hope this article makes people think about that, but I also want to give hope to anyone who does have problem behaviors with their dog that, in many cases, and with the right trainer and the use of positive reinforcement training, your dog can be rehabilitated. Just know that this requires a great deal of commitment and lots of time and patience. The end result, however, is that you could succeed and be rewarded with having a wonderful dog who learns to trust in your relationship. Jack and I wish you and your dogs the best of luck. Copyright 2002 |
![]() "SHAPING YOUR DOG" - not a keep fit routine! WHAT IS SHAPING? HOW DOES IT WORK? SHAPING YOUR DOG Re-print courtesy of - dog-behaviour.com Debbie Waller |
![]() WHAT TO TEACH Decide in advance what you want your dog to learn, and in what order you want him/her to learn it. Introducing one command at a time makes it easier for your dog to learn, with the minimum of confusion and stress. Examples of commands might be
Sit or down is a good start, followed by come, since this gives you a reasonable level of control. Add the others one at a time. The more often you practice the faster s/he will learn. HOW TO TEACH TRAINING FOR LIFE Training your dog to be a good member of society is just as important as training him/her to obey. Try to introduce your puppy to as many new situations and different types of people as you can. Walk him/her round crowded town centres, and near farm animals. If you don’t have children, try to "borrow" some so s/he can meet them. Travel in a car and on a bus, perhaps even on a train. If your puppy seems frightened don’t be cross, but don’t be too sympathetic either. This seems harsh but comfort can seem like praise to your dog (all those soft words and cuddles) and can encourage him/her to be afraid. Ignore signs that your dog is worried, and praise signs of coping. } It’s best to do all this before the age of 18/20 weeks if possible. If your dog is older than this you will have to introduce new situations carefully and gradually and to be aware that s/he might find it difficult to adapt. Ask for help if you need it. Handle your puppy daily, even if s/he doesn’t need a lot of grooming at this stage. Check ears, nose, eyes, skin etc. Encourage and reward patient acceptance of this type of handling. If this is a normal part of life, a visit to the vets or groomer's won’t be so traumatic later on. Re-print courtesy of - dog-behaviour.com Debbie Waller |
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"WHY DOGS DON'T DO WHAT YOU WANT THEM TO DO" A systematic outline of the genetic, environmental and physiological factors that contribute to canine behavior and temperament Genetic Predisposition Leadership Stimulation Canine Learning Fear, Stress and Frustration Physiological Development and Disorders In our experience, the greatest chance for success in changing a dog's behavior and temperament through a systematic treatment program can be implemented only after determining which aspect(s) of The Arnoff Model apply to the dog and to the dynamics in the environment. The success of hundreds of dogs and owners has convinced us that the well-organized, time-tested Arnoff Model is sensible, comprehensive, humane and successful. The Arnoff Model© |
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A1 DOG BEHAVIOUR
I have found that theory is great but when tempered with some common sense, it gets to be a great deal better. No-body is perfect. There is no such thing as the perfect dog or the perfect owner, and in combination, boy do we get to have some fun trying to understand each other and get along!! I've been very blessed with my friends at BOA and in the dog training world in general who have helped me test my (often unconventional) ideas and who helped me develop the confidence to stand up and say things such as, "Dogs have emotions." and "Dogs and people form meaningful, mature relationships with all the complications that entails."
and "Dogs understand much, much more than just simple command words." and "If you speak to dogs in real language, with real meaning, they do understand you on a very profound level." and "Dogs are not just stimulus-response robots." and "They're smart and they have their own agenda, and each one is an individual in their own right." "There's no way I'm going to treat my dogs as though I was a wolf in a pack. They're not wolves - they are my companions, my charges, my friends."and "Dog owners aren't stupid, uneducated, deluded. They're people, for God's sake. Take time to listen to them and find out their point of view, their own strengths and beliefs, and make your advice fit in so it works FOR THEM and THEIR DOG and you've got dog training that actually works in the real world." ... out loud, in public, and if need be, I can support these statements with very long and complicated words and "et al" studies from neuro-physiological research and quantum biology insights that have recently been discovered and turn the old Skinnerean worlds upside down - at last. If you want to learn about my kind of dog training and behaviour, you're welcome. It won't suit you if for you dogs are nothing but stimulus-response robots, or if you like to think of them as machines or privates in your army. If you have dogs for the love, the relationship and the challenge of communicating with another species on the other hand, and you're a fallible human being, then be most welcome. You might just have found the right place here with us. |
Dogs suffer from stress just as human beings do. Prolonged stress takes a toll on a dog's health. Stress upsets the normal balance of your dog's hormones, nervous system function, heartbeat, and breathing rates. It can cause a dog to decline in condition and body weight, to lack concentration, or to go into a depression. Stress can be caused by parasites, bacteria, or virus infection, trauma (as from a dog fight or injury to a limb), burns, breeding, being taken to too many dog shows, or the withholding of affection. All stress is not bad. Stress caused by the tension of a dog's waiting for you to throw the ball so he can retrieve it is good stress-the dog goes into 'high alert" as he watches you, waiting for you to throw the ball. Then, as he runs after the ball, the built-up stress is released: This kind of stress-stress that has an answer is beneficial. Stress that has no answer is harmful, however. Unless the dog can see something he can do to change the situation (such as retrieving the ball in the example just given), stress becomes a trigger for anxiety. A dog in this "burned out" condition is vulnerable to physical and emotional disease. The question of stress is a complex one, because so many causes trigger stress reactions, and different dogs respond very differently to the same stimuli. A nervous-natured dog may be upset by rowdy children, continuous noise, or lack of hugs and attention, while a placid-tempered dog may welcome rowdy children as entertainment, not pay any attention to a noisy environment, and sleep peacefully until someone remembers to pat him. A stressed-out dog can have fewer red blood cells than normal. Because these cells carry vital oxygen to the dog's organs and all his body tissues, this diminishing of red blood cells can have far-reaching implications. Feeding your dog increased protein may help offset the lack. But to a dog whose life is stressful the only really satisfactory remedy is to remove the stress or at least minimize it until it does not cause anxiety. Some causes of stress include:
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THE HARMONY PROGRAMME
Welcome back. I have a notion that I am today speaking to a very different person – more confident, more centred and more purposeful – than when we first embarked on this course of learning and exploration together. I have been particularly looking forward to this part of the course; understanding the nature of energy exchanges and their effect on the behaviour of animals (and people) was my own first breakthrough experience into the healing realms that are right here, completely accessible to anyone who might wish to enter there, make perfect sense in the context of practical living and results and yet for some obscure reason, seem to have been missed over and over as old entrainments are thoughtlessly repeated from one generation to the next and knowledge and understandings are lost and become corrupted. I would like to tell you the story of The Harmony Programme, how I came to it and what we learned from that time. It could possibly be the most important single aspect of this entire course for many of those of you who are reading it, so and without any further ado, here it is: The Harmony Programme In 1993, I was working as an animal behaviour specialist and had been doing so for the preceding 12 years. At this time, I was at the top end of the referral chain and worked closely with John Fisher and a number of other behaviour specialist to create new approaches and paradigms in the face of ever growing numbers of companion animals with severe behaviour problems. We had by that time already developed major breakthroughs, such as the role of allergic responses to food in particular which caused severe and otherwise inexplicable behaviour problems; most notably the overfeeding of digestible proteins to under exercised pet dogs, causing hyperactivity and numerous other kinds of problems, but also responses to various other additives, colorants and flavourings in many other species and including zoo- and farm animals. John Fisher was working particularly with the so called "Dominance Reduction Programmes" for dogs, and if you are not interested in dogs or don’t like them much, I would suggest you still listen carefully because this is centrally important and the key points are beautifully portrayed in the problems of dog owners and the Dominance Reduction Programmes or DRPs for short. Trying to take a "scientific" approach to the problems of disobedience and behaviour problems in companion (pet, house kept) dogs across the breeds, it was decided at some time to try and copy the visible behavioural strategies that naturally exist in a wolf pack or in a pack of laboratory beagles, and have the human parts of the "pack" play the role of the "alpha male" by copying what "alpha males do" – the idea being that you "speak a language that an animal might understand that is too neurologically limited to understand in any other way." The owner was advised to "take charge" of all forms of interaction with the companion dog and to create a "power gradient" through a brick-by-brick approach that would clearly show the dog in question who was the ruler, the leader, the confident "alpha dog in the human pack". The areas where this charge was taken were global and comprehensive and extended over the following: All forms of social interaction. The dog was not responded to unless it first "submitted" in some form - if it would come to the owner for attention, for example, it would have to go through an obedience ritual first before it was stroked. It was purposefully ignored in preference of other creatures/humans in the house upon greeting, and in many other contexts. Power Games in movements and exercise. In "the wild" (what wild!) it is held that "the Alpha dog goes first" – gets the food first, leads the pack on the hunt, gets every bone by rights and enforces this entirely, does everything first. There is a famous picture that at that time just about every animal behaviourist had on their walls – of a wolf pack in the arctic in single file with the Alpha male up front, in strict hierarchy, and not one of these 20 wolves put a paw out of line ever as the snow trail behind them testifies. Power Games in food and feeding. Once again, the owner would eat first – if only demonstratively, a biscuit whilst the dog was waiting to be fed, and the dog would have to wait for permission from the owner before it was allowed to eat. Shock devices such as the so called "dog training discs" or the more old fashioned (and cheaper) version of "two stones in a coke can" would be used in set ups, like having food in the centre of the floor, to "negatively condition" the dog to the fact that all food belongs to the owner, the shock device replacing the shock of an Alpha male flying out, teeth bared, to protect their bone "in the wild". Physical/spatial power games such as forcing one’s way through a doorway ahead of a dog, up and down the stairs, making the dog get up and move out of one’s way deliberately numerous times a day, forbidding "privileged" resting places such as beds, arm chairs, power hot spots such as thresholds and landings, "taking the dog’s bed" by sitting or standing in it just to show the dog "that you can", ensuring the dog walking behind the owner as a pack member would follow the alpha leader and so forth. As time went on, the DRPs became ever more specific and watertight as the power divergence between dog and owner was extended into virtually every waking moment of their lives together. And the results at that time seemed near miraculous. Dogs started to pay attention to the owners, became more "obedient", pulled on the lead less and it is true, we really thought we had cracked it as far as dog behaviour was concerned. In the spring of 1993, two things happened that began to erode my confidence in DRPs and gave me a severe headache at the time. The first of these was that I was seeing a number of dogs and their owners with extreme problems that had not become better as the result of applying DRPs, but were getting ever worse. I must admit to having fallen prey myself to the unhelpful human behaviour of "if at first you don’t succeed, try harder". DRPs worked, right? The owners were just not doing them hard enough! The effect of tightening up on the DRPs further and further was appalling. One dog in particular and one who, it could be said, gave her life for us all and me in particular at that time, was a Doberman bitch by the name of Bridget. When we started, she had some mild moments of general disobedience in an otherwise loving relationship with her female owner. After 3 months on the DRP, she was a ravening mad beast who turned and tore apart an old cat she had played with happily her entire life and the owner had her put to sleep on the spot. That is when I stopped dead and knew something was terribly wrong. I closed my behaviour counselling practise and turned with a passion to finding out just what had happened and to investigate the whole DRP situation from a new standpoint. And then the second piece of evidence came to me. Previously, I had been involved in setting up a long term study of the effects of DRPs on the dog/s and owner/s – in order to have scientific back up data on how good they were and how useful. As the questionnaires came back from the owners who had undergone these miraculous changes for the better two years ago it became blatantly apparent that many dogs had become worse and Bridget had not been the only example of this at all; that many owners had stopped using the DRP strategies within days of the consultation and the old original problems had never been resolved at all; and that many more dogs developed behaviour problems of a different kind as well as the original presenting ones. This rang a bell and I looked up a similar study conducted by an American animal behaviour team in the 70’s, a husband and wife – Hart & Hart. Their study had been conducted before the onset of DRPs and their popularity, and it mirrored mine quite perfectly apart from one detail – the statistics of dogs becoming much worse were absent. At this time I was also beginning the study of NLP and this incredible modality suggests that one should model excellence in order to know how to design trainings and strategies to re-create excellence in others. When I looked carefully at people who I regarded as having an "excellent" relationship with their companion animals and including myself, I realised with astonishment that we were NOT applying any DRP strategies at all with our own creatures. Our relationships were NOT that of human wolves within a pack. What we were doing was inherently and absolutely different. Instead of turning ourselves into wolves, we remained human and endeavoured to teach our creatures the ways of human communication. Instead of waging war with our animals, we were co-operating with them from a base line of mutual respect and understanding. And then one day, it hit me like a ton of bricks what it was that was so completely overlooked in scientific animal behaviour and yet so glaringly on display if only one would open one’s eyes as THE major factor of successful companion animal relationships: Love. With my heart beating high, I went through the many books on animal behaviour and especially, companion animal behaviour and I could not find that word in a single one of them at the time. It was an absolute revelation to me that opened my eyes to the universe as it really was in a heartbeat and probably changed me more than any other experience I have had on this plane. What exactly is love? Right from the start, I was well aware that what I meant by "love" was not some kind of mushy, fluffy pink behaviour that results in putting knitted jackets on Alaskan Malamutes because "it makes him look so cute". It was some kind of energy form that existed naturally between an owner and an animal and that was a major driver for otherwise completely inexplicable behaviours. Why, I ask you, why if this did not exist, could it possibly be explained that a seventy year old arthritic tiny lady can walk with that massive, uncastrated GSD by her side who obeys her and makes sure the lead stays loose as not to hurt her? She’s not dominating him, she’s not even hormonally targettable as an "alpha female" any more. She is asking him nicely if he would mind sitting there for a while whilst she goes into a shop and he says yes. What is that? That is not and never, "dog eat dog" scientific laboratory beagle behaviour. This is a fully formed, deeply bonded, highly interactive, mature relationship between two entirely sentient beings who are trying to co-operate as best they can. Those two look at each other and something passes between them – and this something is not a result of training or communication, but the baseline for any of it in the first place. An energetic connection of the highest order that will remain even through extreme suffering, that is at some level beyond reproach and quite regardless of either creature’s limitations. We can call it what we like, but it sure looks like "love" to me. DRPs Strangle Love With this new mindset I went back and looked again what happens in the interactions when a DRP is being applied. Firstly, the owner is told that the dog is "trying to take over". This sets the war metaphor in place and reframes the owner’s experiences in that light – the dog coming up with a toy is not just wanting to play, but it is in fact a part of a long term, devious strategy to grab all the power and become the Hitler of the household. In our last unit, we talked about what happens in medical interventions when war metaphors are applied, and we had an experience of accepting the problem unconditionally in the "becoming the vortex" exercise. Do please note that the vortex is the same vortex, but as we change our perspective or frame of reference from war to understanding, we receive a rush of new insights and the universe expands all of a sudden. In DRP interventions, the relationship universe contracts as the dog becomes the enemy. You contract it too much and you will reduce the possibility of incidences of "good energy exchanges" to the point where the creature in question experiences such a shortfall of this essential energy (and make no mistake, it is absolutely essential and systemically built into any species that forms relationships, no matter how rudimentary, with others of its kind) that a systemic collapse occurs and the relationship simply dies. It is this shortfall of essential energy that drives behaviour disturbances, stress related illness and in the end, systemic shutdown and death. Understanding The Structure Of Attention Seeking Behaviour With the caveat that you can "drive any creature crazy" if you put it into insane environments (such as a panther in a small enclosure), feed it with poison, or torture it continuously with actions, substances, and behaviours from the outside, all the rest of the behaviour problems you might come across can be chunked up to versions of "attention seeking behaviour". This is a very, very interesting phrase. Just run it through your mind and apply it to a creature of any kind, a child perhaps: "She was attention seeking all the time." What response, what gut response do you have to that phrase? It’s not a good one, I would wager. It’s along the lines of, "Dear oh dear. Tut. Shake head. Naughty child. Ah, she’ll learn to keep herself quiet eventually. Her parents probably "spoiled" her. She thinks she’s the centre of the universe. Ah, we’ll beat it out of her ..." It is extraordinary to me just how we have come to that. Where did this come from? Who was the first to think it was a good idea to leave a child crying for hours in the dark and expect this to be "good for them"?
At least now (in the last 30 years or so, to put it in perspective, and by all means not in all Western parent’s thoughts) it is held to be the right thing to feed a baby when it is crying and as soon as possible because:
This process is the exact template for energy exchanges of the "love" kind. Attention seeking behaviour is a feedback device designed to alert those who can do something about it that there is a shortfall in an energy system that cannot be alleviated by other forms of energy but specifically needs to be fed by the attention of others. As an aside, it is my supposition that even universal Christ love cannot satisfy the human circuitry set up to process and utilise human energy input. It can, however, feed the overall system enough to stave off full collapse if it can be successfully received on a regular basis. Attention seeking behaviour is set up so that reflexively and unless there are mitigating circumstances, western humans will automatically draw back and refuse to give that attention. It is extraordinary how we have been programmed to think of "neediness" as a terrible character flaw and to jump on it viciously and trying to extinguish it at every possible opportunity, no matter how insane and totally crippling such behaviour may be. For example, you may have come across the way that young medical doctors are kept awake due to an insane rota system for days on end. Here the "need that must not speak it’s name" is sleep. Everyone needs sleep for maximum functioning. No-one whatsoever is served by a tired, unconcentrated doctor – not the system, not the doctor, not the nurses, and most totally not, the patients. Yet that system is still in place and there is tremendous resistance to changing it. Tutor Comment: The Attention Seeking Behaviour Evolution Attention Seeking Behaviour progresses through the following stages as the need becomes more and more acute and more excruciating to the individual who is experiencing the energetic shortfall in a visceral, whole body experience: 1. Awareness Here, the creature (child, dog, cat, horse) first becomes aware that the shortfall exists and begins to look around for a likely "other" who may fulfil this need. 2. Approach The creature will get up and start approaching the other and make some minor signs that it is in need of some attention. In an animal, that would probably be just coming over and presenting themselves whilst looking at the other. 3. Escalation If the other ignores (read "refuses to provide the attention energy") this subtle approach, creature A will now escalate its behaviours to "break on through" the barrier of ignoring – make sounds, push physically, engage in behaviours that have previously worked to "gain attention". 4. Extreme Escalation If these higher level behaviours are also ignored, the need turns to a pain and will now drive consecutively more extreme behaviour in turn in a direct cause and effect relationship. If the need is high enough, the creature may even attack. 5. Catastrophic Collapse If still no energy is forthcoming, the system collapses in on itself in a catastrophic implosion which causes severe neurological damage; the stage beyond rage is autism, where the creature can no longer elicit the energy required nor process it when it is being offered because of the damage sustained by the receptors of the energy processing system during the catastrophe. Depending on the severity of the neurological/energetic catastrophe and the age of the creature at which the catastrophe occurred (obviously the younger the creature, the greater the impact on the system overall), some individuals may never come back from the autism stage and remain there forever. The Cure For Attention Seeking Behaviour Disorders It is so simple – following the "crying baby" model for filling the need as soon as it arises, ASBDs can be entirely avoided as well as cured by giving focussed attention immediately and as soon as the request has been received. This does not mean one has to put one’s entire life on hold or "run rings around the creature" – it is literally a simple little flash of attention at the right time and when first asked for it; the classic "a stitch in time saves nine" principle. Rather than "rewarding" attention seeking behaviour, it never gets to escalate, the creature’s energy system remains balanced and the disturbed behaviours never need take place at all. As the babies who are fed when they are hungry cry markedly less or not at all, creatures who receive attention energy (or love or recognition energy) when they ask for it, their attention seeking behaviours become markedly less frequent, markedly less dramatic and may cease altogether once the system has been in operation for a while and the creature has understood that not only can it get what it needs just the for the asking, but also it’s energy system has become more robust, more healthy, more resilient and won’t collapse when there is a time when attention is in short supply. Tutor Comment: Animal Autism It is one of the saddest things I personally find to have to deal with to meet an animal that has entirely shut down within itself and is no longer able to make attention energy exchange based relationships with others. Autism is a rainbow scale of a naturally existing neurological function, not an on and off switch and autistic behaviours in animals are often and once again, very sadly mistaken for "being stubborn" or "wilful" or "disobedient". As autistic animals cannot provide the owners with "attention energy" in turn (as they are trapped within themselves), the owners may actually go through the same attention seeking escalations that can end up with attacking the creature just so it will take notice, respond at last and acknowledge their existence. Tutor Comment: Trance Behaviours & Repetitive Behaviours A safety mechanism of any social creature’s neurological set up is to induce autistic-like deep trance states to protect themselves from the systemic catastrophe. Repetitive rocking in small human and monkey babies who are left to themselves, head weaving in elephants, flank sucking in Dobermans, shadow chasing and tail chasing in collies, crib chewing in horses, pacing endlessly in a ritualistic way in caged cats are just amongst the many, many examples of this. In pet dogs, spaniels and crosses thereof are highly pre-disposed to enter these trance states in moments of stress and there are many variations on the theme. Self mutilation and ritualised howling/vocal expressions also lead to the security of a deep trance state where the individual may rest inside when external environmental conditions have become unbearable – these external conditions being systemically, a short fall of energy of the correct kind to re-balance the stressed and hungry system. It is my supposition that the individual creature’s choice of which route into trance they will take is a mixture of genetic pre-disposition and chance; I have seen many animals who have developed a chance behaviour into these rituals and the behaviours themselves, which may be quite bizarre to an unsuspecting onlooker, are, indeed, secondary to the trance state they are designed to induce. The Harmony Programme In Brief Let us back up here and go through the main points of the energetic circumstances and causes and effect of "attention seeking behaviour disorders" in mammals (and this includes people too) step by step.
Turning the World Upside Down Back in 1993, I formulated the appalling idea, based on my theoretical musings and practical observations, that instead of playing power games with a companion animal, one should try and give positive attention right away, as soon as the animal would indicate a need by a small behaviour such as coming up, looking at the owner, or trying to make contact in any other shape or form. This contradicted about everything I had ever been taught or learned to do; for example, it was common practise to let small puppies howl and cry all night until "they had learned that no-one would come" and "thus never to reward this appalling attention seeking behaviour". So it must be said that it was not without trepidation that I began to experiment in earnest and put my theory to the test. And here’s what happened in actuality. Harmony In Action I would go upstairs and at the first scratching of the puppy, I would go back down again, open the kitchen door, cuddle the puppy ("Oh no!" the old fashioned dog trainers and nursery nurses began to shout, "you’re making a rod for your own back! The puppy will grow up a monster!!!"), put it back in it’s bed and tell it with full eye contact and meaning, "Now then, little one, all is well. I’m upstairs and if you need me for anything, just call me and I will come. Good night now. I love you." Then I would turn off the light, close the door and sit at the bottom of the step until the scratching and first little whimper would start up again, and I’d repeat the self same thing. With this particular puppy, a very sensitive 8 week old poodle cross God-alone-knows-what, it took 8 repetitions and a total of 1 hour 12 minutes for silence to reign and for me to go to bed. It called me twice more that night, and once or twice a night for another 3 days. After that, it did not call me any more apart from one occasion about a week later and when I went to see it, it was distressed and a little while later, threw up something that looked like an old fish skeleton. I wrote down my findings in a note book and mused for some considerable time on the last puppy in my house, that had howled for hours on end and finally got to sleep in my bed in the end anyway simply because the neighbours sent the police round repeatedly. Realising of course that one puppy doesn’t make a paradigm shift, I then went back to my referring trainers and assistants, told them the whole story and asked them to try it out. They listened with both eyebrows raised but luckily enough, I had an excellent reputation and track record for being sensible and practical in all my dealings and innovations, so they gave me the benefit of the doubt and a rather half hearted, "Ahm, ok Silvia ... we’ll try it ..." One of these, a very conservative lady, had taken receipt of a rescued GSD bitch that very afternoon and in the night, grew fearful that the bitch would break through the glass kitchen door and injure herself severely, as she was throwing herself against it senselessly in absolute panic of separation. As the lady, who happened to be a highly qualified and supremely experienced dog obedience instructor and trainer’s trainer, didn’t know what else she could do (and sleeping with the dog in the bedroom was not an option on account of her husband and his views on the topic), she half heartedly tried "Silvia’s new fangled theory". She went back into the kitchen and told the dog that she needed to sleep and that she was just upstairs, feeling very foolish by her own admission for doing so. Guess what. The GSD bitch calmed right down and called the lady three more times before in that household too, peace and silence reigned that lasted until 7am the next morning when the bitch began to bark to be let out into the garden. The rescued bitch never called again after that – not once and to this very day in 2001. From mad separation anxiety to total peace in one single night. The good people who tried out the Harmony Programme on their cats, dogs, horses, husbands and in their boarding kennels, rescue kennels, wildlife parks, you name it, were absolutely astonished how easy it was to calm a creature in this way and how it did the exact opposite of what we all had believed it would do – instead of a needy monster that would haunt you all your living, breathing hours, what we were creating were balanced, satisfied individuals that seemed to find a sense of confidence in their environments, in us, and most importantly, within themselves. Before we go on to Harmony Programme exercises, I would like to tell you why I am taking my time in this assignment to tell you all of this. The Harmony Programme is not something that we can use as healers from the outside to make "everything all right" in behaviour problems that are rooted in attention seeking. It is something that the caretakers need to be told about and need to at least try, no matter how half heartedly, to get an understanding of the benefits for everyone involved. The "need for attention energy" is a daily one, and it is important that the owners make changes in their interactions with the animal in question to supply at least a baseline of positive attention energy and begin to find ways of backing away from negative attention energy exchanges. Positive VS Negative Energy Interactions Although for that part of the system which processes attention energy it really doesn’t seem to matter what kind of attention is being given, the kind of attention (positive or negative) has many repercussions on other energetic exchanges and on the systems of both caretaker and animal. Animal carers know that animals will prefer a shouting at or a beating rather than being ignored. This is also true for children and of course, the delinquents in the prisons and mental hospitals that these children eventually become. Eliciting negative attention (being shouted at, threatened, chased around, reprimanded, punished) is so much easier and so much more freely forthcoming in this society of ours, it is scary. You might laugh, but I can’t remember the last time a policeman stopped me on the road and commended me on my safe driving skills. I also don’t think I’ve ever had a friendly letter from the taxman thanking me sincerely for paying up every year on time, either. But I guess that’s just the tip of the iceberg. With the kind of set up that ignores the good completely but crashes into action for bad behaviour immediately, you can see how easily animals fall into thinking that the only way they can get this vital life energy is by resorting to annoying behaviours and escalating to worse and worse ones over time. The problem with this process is that prolonged negative attention energy exchanges are bad for the self esteem of both the caretaker and the animal/s; they lead to tension, terrible stress, less in the way of touch and over time, less and less desire to interact at all which cannot help but create a vicious downward spiral where everyone involved cannot help but suffer. The end result of this unloving spiral is usually euthanasia or re-homing of the animal in question. Even way back then, I began to talk about "reconnecting the owner and the animal" and using "natural communication" and "the underlying strand of love" to do so. Energy therapy in action, only I didn’t even know the name then. Re-Connecting The Love In the original Harmony programme, I advised my then assistants and trainees to find moments when the owner/caretaker had experienced a "falling in love" with the creature in question – the moment when they chose that one animal in a litter, or a herd, or from a choice of all the animals on this planet. Sometimes, it wasn’t so much an active choice and someone might have just had a moment somewhere and accepted a rescued or unwanted animal into their hearts and homes but unless the caretaker absolutely never wanted the animal in the first place (which is a very rare occurrence indeed and not a one you are likely to come across amongst the clientele that would seek out an animal energy healer) there is always that moment when two creatures met and fell in love. Now and exactly as it is with people, stuff happens, annoying things happen, bad things happen and that love connection gets plastered over with daily negativity and unhappiness until a point may be reached when you can’t see it shining out any more under all that rubbish that has been piled upon it, and one or the other creature truly believes that "the love is dead". For one, this is a very sad moment indeed when they think, "I don’t love you any more." But for the other, it is the end of the world as the echo arises in return, "They don’t love me any more." It is one of the very worst energetic injuries any social creature is capable of sustaining in the Hard, and can prove to be incurable and fatal, indeed. To take a client back in time to a time when this love was still clear and clearly visible and could be touched just by looking at the creature is a direct energetic effort at clearing away some of the rubbish and reminding everyone concerned about the energetic realities of the situation. Establishing this baseline or base connection of love, that it is absolutely still there and absolutely still as bright and beautiful as it was the first time they looked upon the creature and made that connection with them, is the most healing intervention you can possibly make in any situation involving behaviour problems of any kind. With the baseline love connection in place, the human client will:
* Exercise 1 – Falling In Love Think of an older animal you know, one that may have been with you for many years and might not, at this time, be the total focus of your attention. If you do not have or know of such an animal, a human friend is a perfect stand in for this exercise. Think back on a time, perhaps long ago, when first you met this creature. Allow yourself to really remember what it was like, then – remember details about the meeting, what time of day it was, where it was, what you were wearing and so on. Now, remember the moment when you first fell in love and also then, remember how you felt at that time. Holding the feeling steady, allow time in your mind to pass as it does and consider the animal as it is today. Reflect on how your feelings towards the animal have changed as a result of this exercise. * Exercise 2 – Magic Moment For this exercise, remember a time when you connected deeply with an animal. A time when you looked into an animal’s eyes and it looked back and you knew that something extraordinary had happened, a moment that changed you both in some way and changed your relationship after it had taken place. Remember and really re-experience this moment of connection as fully and on as many levels as you can. Sit for a moment after the exercise and give grace. The purpose of the two exercises above is to bring to your conscious awareness as well as setting up your unconscious systems, to recognise that special energy that makes up a "love connection" between two mortal creatures here in the Hard. Once you have recognised and experienced it yourself, it becomes much easier to target and re-call this energy in others you are working with. To this end, here is an exercise with another human who will stand in for your future clients: * Exercise 3 – Remember ... Find a willing human and talk to them about an animal of theirs. Ask them about those two incidences from Exercise 1 and 2. You do not have to make a big deal about it, just ask them conversationally, for example, "Where did you get X? When was that? How did you come to choose X? What was special about X?" For Exercise 2, you can ask, "Did you ever have a special moment with X? Something you really remember?" As they think about it and answer you, keep a close track on their states and energy emanations. See if you can guide them to a point where you can absolutely feel the resonance of their experiences with the love connection in yourself. * Exercise 4 – The Love Connection Now, strengthen and nourish that love connection you have brought to the human’s awareness in any way that comes to you. You could, for example:
Give them a silent blessing and continue the conversation until you have reached a natural exit point. Do this exercise with at least three different humans and note how the energy of the love connection is immediately recognisable in each case. Tutor Comment – The Fear Of Love When this is done in workshops, an objection is nearly always raised from the participants and it goes like this: "Isn’t it dangerous to strengthen someone’s love connections to another creature? Is it ecological? Doesn’t it make bereavement much worse when the creature dies? Won’t they become ever so upset if they lose the creature or if it is ill?" These questions come from the presupposition that love makes us vulnerable to terrible suffering and pain and it might be better to not love at all, or at least keep a lid on how much we love, so we need not experiences these awful feelings. This is a classic Harmony Programme style dilemma, only it isn’t a dilemma at all, we were just and once again, taught and entrained to believe that it is. George Harrison had a point when he said, "All you need is love." Oh, for sure, that line has been beaten to death and heard so many times that it has become hardly more than "Coca Cola is The Real Thing" in our neurologies but the fact is that it’s true. All you need is love. The more you have of it, the more powerful you become, the more centred within yourself, the more unassailable you are to doubt, fear and panic; the more you are able to cope with anything at all the universe can possibly throw at you. From a place of love, you can do things that you thought were beyond you. You can stand pain, unbelievable suffering and in the end, if you just love enough, you can quite happily allow yourself to be nailed onto a cross, drink from the hemlock chalice or walk voluntarily to the bonfire for burning – this truly is the only way to overcome and find strength, courage, perseverance, dedication, and every single human attribute that’s worth having at all. Love truly does reach across time and space and it is truly, in that sense, eternal. It is not love that causes pain, it is backing away from it, holding back from it and disturbing its absolutely pure energies with entrained power games, domination games, possession games, punishment games and all the other kinds of games that people play. Therefore, anything at all that you might do or contribute to strengthen love connections and the flow of this energy form – between creatures, between creatures and owners, between creatures, owners and you, between you and the universe, the land, the earth itself - is a holy pursuit of the highest order. Healing With Love Energy Behaviour problems are inherently and structurally different from health problems in many ways. They are often linked, of course, and I would encourage you to remember our planes model and to give serious thought to Hard reasons for behaviour disorders – the usual mismanagement, environmental conditions, bad feeding, underlying health or structural or physiological problems in conjunction with genetic pre-dispositions towards expressing behaviours that are often species and breed-line specific. True behaviour problems always arise as a result from an individual animal having a disturbed map of the world, created by trauma or drop-by-drop chipping away at the individual’s original map over time. Behaviour problems respond to love energy like a parching man in the desert will respond to the offer of water. Love energy, based on the deepest possible connect and deepest possible regard for the Immortal Beloved as we discussed earlier in the course, is my first choice intervention for any behaviour problem. Simply, the worse the problem, the more love the creature needs to find a new balance within themselves and to begin to want to really live again. Sometimes, we are the first one in many years, if ever, that could reach into that creatures darkness and loneliness and give it very literally a ray of hope. * Exercise 5 – Ray Of Hope Find any creature at all that might be appropriate for you to give a ray of hope – a loving, that special energy of love from one living, sentient being to another. This may be a zoo animal, a kennelled animal, an animal that you know of and that suffers in the darkness, or it may be a bitter little old lady who lives in your street – structurally and technically, it matters not. This is a distance healing exercise, so please create the meeting space as discussed in Unit 8 and invite the creature to join you there. Look upon it and leave its physicality as it presents to you behind and meet the Immortal Beloved in the other. Allow yourself to love them. I know that that is easier said than done, for we too have our fears of loving. Accept what you can give and receive and see if you cannot release some of your old limitations today and love more, more and more until you breach the threshold into total brilliance and love is, indeed, all there is. Please Note: Do what you can. I ask never any more of you than you are ready, able and willing to give. If you cannot breach the threshold as yet or if fears assail you at this point, it is as it is and the beginning, not the end. Try this exercise often and be gentle and loving with yourself, allowing yourself the time you need to grow into love. This concludes the first part of The Harmony Programme. In the second part, we will consider communicating with animals, training and animal emotions in the context of the Harmony Programme. This Paper is an excerpt from "Energy Healing For Animals" by Silvia Hartmann.
For the original Harmony Programme and Harmony Programme based dog training and behaviour manuals, please visit http://A1Harmony.com and http://sidereus.org/eha.htm Details are on http://sidereus.org/eha.htm but The Harmony Article is specifically NOT an EFT course in any shape or form although the protocol is in the addendum in Unit 8 on distance healing. Please visit the site to discover more about energy healing. A Note From The Author And Copyright Holder Dear Reader. The Harmony Programme is one of the most important things I have discovered in my quest to seek a better understanding of how the Universe works than I had been offered by my various well-meaning teachers alive and across the centuries. I have always had problems with charging for this discovery or should I say, re-discovery of a truth about the World and our interactions within it. The Harmony Programme, if it was known and understood, would absolutely revolutionise not just dog training – indeed, and as much as I love dogs, it is not even here it is the most needed. Every single day, everywhere where Western ideologies are in place, little babies, disabled children, delinquents, old people, sick people, all people are being treated with dominance reduction and behaviourism. They still give and withold Smarties and priviledges to seriously mentally handicapped, helpless individuals, for Heaven’s sake. It is the accepted practise everywhere and it perpetuates so much suffering in so many different ways, it is literally scary. Not everybody "gets" the Harmony Programme. Some people do and have done, a long time before I got to it but it was never properly written up like I’ve done as far as I know. A S Neill, for example, the famous founder of the Summerhill School, used to cure delinquent children way back in the 1950’s by paying them for every time they wet the bed or broke a pane of glass and their behaviour would stop, too – as if by magic. This is just one of a billion possible applications of the Harmony Programme. Therefore, and in spite of the fact I have to live in the Hard and pay my mortgage, I offer this paper to you with all copyright restrictions removed and for full public distribution. You can share this with anyone and everyone, freely, and I would encourage you to do so. You can re-print it, copy bits from it, re-phrase it, re-name it; you can even pretend you invented it if you need to. I won’t sue you. This information needs to be out there. Every single care officer, dog trainer, parent, teacher, healer, psychologist who gets even a little glimpse of the possibilities here for healing, growth and change and tries it out, no matter how half heartedly at first, is one more human who can help stem the tides of negativity we are perpetuating each and every day into the next generations and beyond by our lack of understanding of the basic idea that needs need to be filled in order to establish happiness and Even Flow. With my best regards to you and all those who look to gain attention from you, Silvia Hartmann, January 2002 |
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Are
You Committed To Working with Your Aggressive Dog?
You
can think of your aggressive dog the way you would view an alcoholic. An
alcoholic is always said to be in recovery. Once you begin to work with
your aggressive dog, you should consider him also to be "in
recovery" for the rest of his life. If
you decide to embark on helping your dog become a safer, happier companion
pet, you must recognize that this will take time, patience and
consistency. You must also recognize that if medication is indicated,
this could be costly. Anytime
we interact with an aggressive dog there are risks involved. If you have
young children in your home, are you willing to put those children at
risk? What would happen if one of your children's friends came to visit
and your dog bit that child? You could be sued. Will you be able to teach
your children how to properly interact with your dog so as not to provoke
a biting incident? These are all things to consider if you want to make
the commitment to rehabilitate your dog. In
many instances, while you work on modifying your dog's behavior, everyone
who lives with your dog will also have to modify their
behavior in order to prevent your dog from becoming reactive toward them,
or to other people your dog will encounter in his life. While
it may be heartbreaking to make this decision, you may have to consider
euthanasia as a viable alternative. If you attempt treatment and it proves
unsuccessful, euthanasia may be your only choice. Please discuss this with
your Behaviorist/Trainer and your veterinarian before making any radical
decisions. In
order to teach your dog more appropriate behaviors to use in place of
aggressive behaviors, you must prevent him from ever showing
aggression again. Each time a dog practices aggression, he learns
this is a very powerful strategy to use to avoid something negative or to
get something he wants. To help your dog avoid showing aggression, you
must avoid putting your dog into any situation that would trigger that
response. Since stress is a huge factor in creating aggressive behavior,
recognize situations that may cause your dog to feel stressed. Author and
trainer Turid Rugaas has written a book called, On Talking Terms with
Dogs: Calming Signals, published by Legacy By Mail, Inc, 1997. The
following is a list of situations that stress dogs (Rugaas, p. 25):
The
following is a list of indicators your dog might give when he is feeling
stressed (Rugaas, p. 26):
You
will benefit by being able to identify those calming signals dogs give
when they are experiencing stress (Rugaas, pp. 5-14):
Finally,
you will recognize the following signs of aggression as preludes to a
possible biting incident (The Canine Aggression Workbook, by James
O'Heare, published by Gentle Solutions, 2001, p. 13):
Here
are my recommendations for books to read to learn more about canine
aggression; you can purchase them at www.dogwise.com:
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LIVING WITH A HYPOTHYROID DOG – MISUNDERSTOOD ILLNESS I
first met Ramstein when he was 1,5 years old.
I
slowly began to understand why – despite intensive and carefully staged
training sessions – I sometimes seemed to get nowhere with Rumpy (his
nickname).
Now all I had to do was making an appointment with the vet for a thyroid panel test. Sounds easy…..BUT: I handed him my printouts of Dr. Dodds’ articles to
read and we made another appointment to have Rumpy’s blood checked.
When we got the results back, the vet smiled triumphantly and said:
“See, I told you, everything is fine! The results are within the normal
range!” I contacted a behaviourist in our area, who is known for her medical background and expertise on thyroid problems. We made an appointment – and she taught me quickly what a real check up should look like (see below, general information)! :-D For about
1,5 hours, she asked questions about Rumpy, his behaviour, our everyday
life, Rumpy’s health in general and lately, vaccinations etc while watching
him walk around.
General
Information on Borderline hypothyroidism
A few months
ago I joined a group of people in a German forum, who all own dog suffering
from borderline hypothyroidism. Almost every one of us had troubles finding
vets with some profound knowledge on this type of disease. And almost
all of us either needed Dr. Dodds articles to convince them or even had
to go to a specialist to get some help. 1. The General Health check should include:
2. A Thyroid panel test should include at least the following:
3. Autoimmune hypothyroidism (comparable to Hashimoto disease in humans) is the most common form (and it seems as if it can be triggered by vaccinations!). Therefore dogs used for breeding should be checked regularly and, if diagnosed with a thyroid problem, not be bred! 4. The thyroid gland is part of a very sensitive loop between pituitary gland, hypothalamus and the thyroid gland itself. This loop can be easily influenced by outside factors (heat, coldness, infections, physical problems, medications, vaccines, stress etc.), which can reduce the efficiency of the thyroid gland as well. Therefore, a proper diagnosis is mandatory before starting treatment (general health check, see above)! Not always are low thyroid results the consequence of a “simple” thyroid dysfunction! 5. The results can vary from breed to breed. Smaller dogs have higher levels of thyroxine than large breeds (small dogs: upper third of the norm range, large breeds: around the average value, geriatric dogs and hounds: lower third of the range). 6. Borderline hypothyroid dogs usually have results right at the bottom of the range (and some might be below). They show NO clinical signs of hypothyroidism which is why the disease is barely recognized as such by vets, especially when the results are still within the normal range! However, the low hormone levels can influence the behaviour tremendously (see my own experiences above) and the dogs might not respond to training at all or not as good as they should. If in doubt, contact a behaviourist with a thorough medical background who is familiar with the works of Dr. Dodds! 7. Treatment should start by 5-10µg Thyroxine/kg body weight a day, given in two doses every two hours. This is the general recommendation by Dr. Dodds due to the fact that the half life of thyroxine in dogs is 10-12 hours ( I have changed to three doses a day as my dog seems to respond best to it, especially as he can face a lot of stress in doggie day care each day. But please, check with your vet before doing the same!). 8. After the initial testing dogs need to be retested after about 6-8 weeks to check on the progress and, if necessary, adjust the dose. 9. A pill of thyroxine usually contains 200µg (other dose available). Each week the dose rate should be raised by a quarter pill. However, the maximum amount of thyroxine to be given to a dog should not exceed 40µg/kg a day! 10. After receiving treatment, dogs can change their behaviour within a short amount of time (see second chart above). However, many behaviour patterns might have already been established by then! While the thyroxine substitution does not take away the training of these sometimes problematic behaviours, it provides the owner with the chance to REACH the dogs again (see above: hyperactivity, lack of concentration etc.) thus making a proper training possible at all. 11. Keep in mind that the thyroid gland is very sensitive and easily affected by lots of factors. Therefore even small changes in the environment, health or the stress level might cause overreactions due to a reduction of the thyroid productivity! If you know the dog might be facing lots of stress soon, give an extra dosis of ¼-1/2 pill (please consult with the vet!). 12. Thyroxine needs about 30-60 minutes to “get to work”. Do NOT start training before that or bring the dog into a stressing situation (even the usual morning walk might be too much then). 13. These dogs rely on positive reinforcement more than others. They are so susceptible to stress that even small amounts of pressure can cause them to just shut down and block you out – or overreact (dangerous when dealing with a dog-dog or dog-human-aggressive dog!). 14. If you haven’t done so already, spay/neuter your dog. Being in heat or meeting a female in heat is just too much stress to handle for these dogs! For further information on hypothyroidism in dogs, please see the following links:
Courtesy of :Daniela Jantzen As a PS –
I also have a dog who fits this description. Her behaviour can only be
described as manic. Totally Hyperactive - Everything she does is at top
speed; her concentration is limited to very short bursts; She has aggressive
behaviour; is possessive; out of doors she is in a world of her own but
unlike many dogs, she has responded well to training which I did start
with her at a very young age; I am sure if I think about it, there are
many other signs, but from the moment she came to live with me, having
always owned this Breed, Springer Spaniels, I knew from day one, this
was no ordinary Springer. As the vets never did pick up her Heart condition
I should not be surprised that they missed this. However, it is on her
records that she suffers from Rage Syndrome which in hindsight was a very
bad diagnosis on the part of her Vet and is now on her records, as is
her supposed Normal Thyroid!
I would say that getting a full Thyroid Panel done on your dog if it shows the types of behaviour described above or worse could perhaps make a huge difference to your dog. On looking at human research it would seem that many people who were proven to have Thyroid problems, were originally being treated for Depression, Obsessive Compulsive Disorder, A range of Mental confusion issues. If this can happen to humans, it can happen with our animals, all species. Another aspect of treating this illness is Diet As we learn more about this Behaviour and Treatment we will update this page and if you wish to write to myself or Daniela, please do so via our CONSULT page. If you have additional information on this topic you can add, please let us know if you would like to have that added to what we have. Copyright: © Animal Holistic Health 2002 |
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