The great majority of boisterous young Dobies do tend to settle down once they are beyond the difficult months of adolescence, which is good news for all despairing owners of 'teenage' dogs. However, it is not good policy to leave their good behaviour as adults simply to luck. Long-term results will be far better if dogs are properly trained during this formative and challenging period.

I visited the Mann household to 'experience for myself the seriousness of the problem and, if I had doubted it to begin with, I certainly didn't a couple of seconds after meeting Dusty. She flew along the corridor past Diane as she stood at the door, and landed right on my chest wagging her tail all the way to her nose the way only a Dobermann can!

Diane's expression said,"See what we have to put up with?" as she valiantly dug me out from underneath her high-spirited and now very heavy dog.

We put Dusty into the garden while we sat down over a coffee to discuss matters in peace. Diane was well on the way to giving up on Dusty. She knew Dusty was not a bad dog, and was willing to do whatever was necessary to train her - if only she could see some light at the end of the tunnel. There was quite a bit of strain within the family as the children were upset by the constant bad feeling towards their beloved Dusty, and Steve had decided to have nothing to do with her any more. It is important in cases where the beginnings of real family discord are so apparent that very clear, achievable goals are defined from the outset. I needed to help take some of the pressure off the Mann's so they could see how to improve Dusty's behaviour in small, bite-sized pieces. It was also important all the family was on board to ensure Dusty's lessons would be consistent and supported by them all.

By the time Diane and I were onto our second coffee, the whole family had arrived home and we were ready to make plans for Dusty. I have discovered that clicker training, which is becoming more and more a major first line of attack with all sorts of training and behavioural problems, is especially suitable for use with children. Children tend to be more attentive to what dogs are actually doing and their timing is usually very good - often much better than their distracted and slower reacting parents. We therefore decided the children would be given the majority of Dusty's basic training to get on with using the click and treat system.

Repeat prescription
Rule one was to teach Dusty to be polite when people entered the house. The clicker would live next to the door and the children would ask Dusty to sit and then click and treat success. They would then bring her to the kitchen and do the same thing. The way it turned out, Dusty got more than this rather meagre number of repetitions as the children enjoyed the game so much that she usually did ten or more sits for a biscuit all the way to the kitchen then ran round through the garden to do it again! In fact, these repetitions were highly beneficial because, for dogs as much as people, practice certainly does make perfect. It was going to be Diane's job to ensure that at the times when Dusty was not in active training, she was not allowed to relapse or learn the wrong lessons.

To facilitate this, a safety gate was fitted to the kitchen door and Dusty was to be given 'time out' sessions behind it whenever it looked as if she was getting out of hand. Although the final aim would be that Dusty could wander the house freely no matter who was about, to begin with I felt it best that she was kept away from the most difficult of circumstances rather than continue to have any undesirable boisterousness occasionally reinforced. Steve agreed to do most of the training in the park. He was to set about gaining more control of Dusty when faced with the distractions of people and other dogs. Again, I wanted to keep everything clear and simple so we could be as sure of quick success as possible. Steve would go out armed with the essential weaponry of extendable lead, Gentle Leader, and treats.

Every time Dusty saw a person approaching, Steve would call her and reward her with a treat for coming. Then, as the person was close enough to pass by, Steve would get Dusty to sit and reward this response with a second treat. When I left after that first visit, the family almost failed to notice my departure as they were all so busy thinking how they were going to manage their projects with Dusty, though I must admit to feeling very pleased about being so ignored!

Child stars
Over the next month Dusty improved beyond my highest expectations. At first, her frustration at being restricted to the kitchen when exciting things were going on elsewhere had been vented with displays of barking behind the child gate. The children, in their undisputed brilliance, had decided to increase their training routine by teaching her to sit quietly behind the gate and she had transferred this learning rapidly to the difficult, more distracting times as well. Out and about, a happy side effect of the amount of recalls and sits Dusty was doing with Steve in the presence of strangers was she was getting far less interested in people and other dogs, as they were less novel to her. There certainly are further improvements which Dusty and the Mann family will be expected to learn over the coming months. Dusty needs to learn to greet other dogs more gently, to obey their call off the lead, to be under control around visitors, and to play interesting games with the family.

The best place to get help with these matters is one of the new-style, kind and pet-oriented dog training classes which are thankfully popping up all over the place (ask the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, tel: 01428 707620 for details). Working with families can be the most challenging and satisfying part of a behaviour counsellor's work. The old-style training methods which rely on a firm tone of voice and being stronger than the dog are totally unsuitable to giving children more control of the family dog, quite apart from their lack of effect or kindness. These methods would have actually increased family tension in this case and the children more than anybody would have been aware it is not fair to tell Dusty off for simply being friendly.

Re-print courtesy of Peter Neville

It is common knowledge that dogs are pack animals and descend from the Wolf. Regardless of size or shape dogs still show 85% of their natural behaviours. Understanding a pack animal is relatively simple, the higher the rank, the more privileges are granted and decisions are made. For the Social structure of a pack to hold together it must have a leader. We must look at some of the rights and privileges that are granted to an Alpha figure and compare them with the way we live with our dogs.

For your training to run smoothly your dog must see you as pack leader. If for whatever reason he puts himself at the top, NO form of training will work until his rank is lowered.

Please remember that you gain the right to be pack leader, not by punishing or forcing your dog into submission, but by being fair and understanding, not harsh and inconsistent. With a more submissive dog you may not need to apply all the guidelines listed to maintain your position.

1. Make sure you eat before your dog. If necessary change his meal times to follow yours or you can make the same point by letting your dog see you eat a biscuit. You are displaying your right to eat first as the highest rank must get the best pickings. Another thing that emphasises who is boss is to prepare your dogs meal so he can see it, but eat your meal first then allow the dog to eat his. Usually, the best time to feed a last feed is around 5.0 PM.

2. Limit the access from room to room as it is your ‘den’ you decide, as pack leader, where the dog is allowed to go. Do this by keeping doors closed. If your dog bothers you when you are on the telephone, or tries to distract you when you do not want this, put him in a room, close the door and leave him for a few minutes, 5 maybe 10 at most, then release the dog from the room, saying nothing, but stroking the head gently - do nothing to over excite him. Alternatively, try and ignore his advances. Our rule is ignore bad behaviour and praise good!

3. If your dog sleeps or lies in key access points in the house, across doorways, the bottom or top of stairs etc., do not walk around him,make him move. This clearly indicates to the dog that lower ranks must step aside for higher ranks.

4. Make upstairs rooms off limits to the dog altogether. He will understand that you have access to the whole ‘den’ when the lower rank is only allowed half.

5. Make sure you are the one to go through doorways, or narrow openings first. When taking your dog out for a walk or opening a door, make sure the higher rank leads the lower. If your dog attempts to go first, do not speak, just close the door firmly shut (do not trap the dog) and repeat until the dog steps back and waits for you to go first.

6. Do not allow your dog to demand fuss or attention. He must earn it so simply ask him to sit. He has earned his attention, give it, When you play with your dog be sure that you keep the toy in your possession. Make it clear to your dog they are your toys and you give permission for them to be used. When the game is ended, you keep the toys under your control. It is very important to remember this if your dog likes tug of war games. This is a test of strength and if your dog wins, this will indicate that he is a higher rank than you are. If you cannot win these games then do not play them if you know your dog is too strong.

7. When your dog has earned the privilege of being stroked, stroke him on the head and shoulders as these are target areas for a dominant dog. Do not fall for the trick of the paw being lifted for the chest to be stroked instead, or flopping to the ground for the same reason. Make the dog earn his reward again by making him sit, lie etc. then titbit or stroke.

8. When you play with your dog be sure that you keep the toy in your possession. Make it clear to your dog they are your toys and you give permission for them to be used. When the game is ended you keep the toys under your control. It is very important to remember this if your dog likes tug of war games. This is a test of strength and if your dog wins, this will indicate that he is a higher rank than you. If you cannot win these games, then don’t play them if you know your dog is too strong.

9. Keep ‘play’ toys and ‘training toys’ apart they serve two different purposes and you must make sure the dog understands the difference. Also, never leave an abundance of toys around for your dog, just one will suffice, and then another time leave a different one. You decide when it is time to remove the toy and when to replace it, you are the ‘pack’ leader, so lead!

10. Be sure your dog gets up and greets you in the morning or when you return home. It is the lower rank that greets the higher so your dog should approach you.

11. Always have 3 things in mind when dealing with dogs, Playtime, Rest time and learning time. Often play and learning can be combined but you need to understand the rules to play under. Try doing a little bit of training often, this stops the dog getting bored, and this is important if we want his co-operation. Rest time is for you and the dog. It is the time you do what you want. The dog must learn this. If he does not understand your request to down - stay, then just quietly put him in another room for a few minutes, and let him out again without any fuss.This type of exercise usually works after the second go. Games are a great way to train and more fun. Ask us for information sheets if you want to make training easier and more mentally stimulating for your dog.

12. Try not to titbit your dog in between meals, unless you use these for training. If this is the case, then include the titbits in his daily food allowance so he is never being overfed. Quite often if a dog is food motivated then he can go without a meal before serious training as this makes his desire to please more urgent. He wants food - he has to do something to get the food - he gets the food. Everyone is happy.

Throughout training, which I believe should start as early as possible, there will be problems. There will be basic toilet training, heelwork, general obedience, as the dog and you work through these more problems may occur like barking, jumping on furniture, jumping up at people etc. All these habits can be stopped but do get help. I have seen many potentially good and willing dogs ruined by one incorrect command or reprisal. Do not let that happen.

Copyright 2001 Liane Nuttal

An Indoor Kennel, if used correctly, can be a very good training tool.
However, for successful results it is very important that you teach your dog that the Indoor Kennel is a wonderful place to be and not a prison or place of containment where the dog is put if things are not going well, or where you, the owner, put the dog because you do not have the time to housetrain it properly, or it has a destructive problem when left alone, otherwise you will make the problems worse, then the dog will hate the Indoor Kennel.

An Indoor Kennel should provide:

• A comfortable place for the puppy/dog to sleep.
   
• A place for the puppy/dog to go and hide if unsure
   
• A place to relax and not be pestered by younger members of the family.
   
• A safe place to rest when the owners are absent, for short periods of time.
• A doggy bedroom which can be moved from room to room or taken on trips in the car, provided it is well padded round the sides

• A punishment block
• A place to put a puppy/dog so it cannot get away from being teased
   
• A place where a puppy is left for several hours at a time.
   
• A substitute for careful supervision and good training practices.
   
• An area to shut a puppy/dog away that has behaviour problems, such as destructive behaviour when left alone, rather than work on the problem with an experienced behaviourist.

• Place the puppy/dog in the Indoor Kennel when you are angry or scold the puppy/dog whilst it is in the kennel.
   
• Force the puppy/dog into the kennel
   
• Shut the door of the Kennel if the puppy/dog is not yet happy and relaxed when inside.
   
• Leave the puppy/dog inside the kennel so long, it cries to be released.
   
• Put a puppy/dog in the Indoor kennel because it's full of energy.
   
• Use the Indoor Kennel for a puppy/dog outside when it is extremely hot or cold.  Indoor Kennels are ideally suited for indoor use only.

• When you have an older dog it is important to supervise the interactions and games between the puppy and older dog, when supervision is not possible, then you can place the puppy in the indoor Kennel.
   
• The Indoor Kennel can become a safe and secure haven when the puppy/dog needs to rest away from children.  This is particularly important if you cannot supervise children and puppies/dogs when together.
   
• Puppies need a lot of rest but often don't know it.  For puppies that need some "time out", the Indoor kennel provides a peaceful, restful environment.
   
• If an owner has to leave a puppy for short periods, this will prevent the puppy from having accidents or chewing inappropriate and unsafe items in the house.
   
• When housetraining a puppy or an adult dog, an Indoor Kennel can be useful for preventing accidents in the training process when you cannot supervise, because your cooking for example.  But BE WARNED, if you leave the puppy/dog in the Indoor Kennel for too long and it is forced to toilet in this area, you will set yourself up for some very serious training problems, apart from the fact that this will cause the puppy/dog extreme stress and is very cruel.
   
• When traveling in the car the Indoor Kennel can provide a familiar resting-place, keeping the puppy/dog safe, particularly from accidents.
• In parts of America and Canada some of the motels have started restricting dogs in rooms unless in a crate. It is nice to be able to safely leave your dog crated while you go to breakfast, or when you are in the shower.  It has been known for the maid to open the room door while the dog owner was in the shower, and the dog escaped.  Crating will prevent this from happening.  
  Also dogs occasionally get an upset tummy when traveling, and some owners would rather clean up a mess in a crate than spread all over a hotel room. (Be warned of the likelihood of behaviour problems - see above) Under no circumstances should a puppy/dog be made to go or stay in an Indoor Kennel, neither should it be in there for long periods of time.

• Firstly, make sure it has a good supply of comfortable bedding, preferably something the puppy/dog is use to and that smells of him/her.  If your using one in conjunction with a Behaviour Modification programme to cure Separation Anxiety, then something that smells of the attachment figure is helpful, providing its safe from small buttons etc.
   
• Feed every meal in the Indoor Kennel, placing the bowl inside, so the puppy/dog goes in at its own free will to eat - DO NOT SHUT THE DOOR - but allow the puppy/dog to come straight out again when the meal is finished.
   
• Place tasty treats inside, like a stuffed Kong, or some other safe chew item for the dog.
   
• If your dog is not bothered very much about food, but prefers toys, then use his or her favourite toy and have a good game, which involves the Indoor Kennel.  Throw the toy inside and allow the dog to fetch it and come out again, making sure you pay a lot of rewarding attention to the dog when it is inside, not when it comes out.
• ALL dogs love petting and attention - make sure he/she gets plenty when inside the Indoor Kennel, then contrast this with 10 minutes of totally ignoring the dog when he/she first comes out, before going back to normal activities.
• Gradually push the door closer and closer to being shut, until the dog is totally relaxed and happy to be contained with the door completely shut.

Under no circumstances should a puppy/dog be made to go or stay in an Indoor Kennel, neither should it be in there for long periods of time.

Courtesy of - behaviour-problems.freeserve.co.uk

WHY DOGS MISBEHAVE - what we can do to prevent this, with Good Training

There are many reasons for Dogs who misbehave, we live in a very hurried and often stressing society. We buy our dog with all good intentions, be it from a breeder, RSPCA, or other Dog Rescue Centres. A lot of habits are ingrained into the particular breed you may have chosen and often you do not go into the specific breed background as much as you should. Ideally you need to talk to other owners, independent people etc. and not always rely on what the breeder is telling you. Dogs from RSPCA/Rescue Centres etc. always have a story. Unfortunately, very few organisations are happy to tell you the background of the dog which is so very necessary to know if you are to help it settle and lead a normal life. You must think of all the pros and cons about owning a dog, what you can offer it in the way of time and company, the fact that it will need a lot of exercise, it will drop dog hairs on your lovely furniture and carpets, run rampant through the house with wet paws etc. it should be a part of the family and it needs to be, but so often I have to attend to dogs who are treated purely as status symbols, or the addition that makes the perfect family. The dog is excluded from the family environment, is not allowed to mix freely, and whilst it may be well looked after and loved, it misses out on being a part of the pack. Obedience and training are not really on the agenda because nobody has the time or patience to spend with a little puppy who basically just wants to play. Yet, this is the time that a few minutes a day spent teaching the dog just the basic Sit, Stay, Down, Wait etc. commands will pay such dividends in the long run. An obedient and well trained dog will never be a dog with Behavioural problems. They arise because confusion is caused by a lack of communication between dog and owner. We tend to talk too much to the dog as if we are having a conversation. The dog really doesn't understand much of what is said, it may pick up on keywords like Walk, Biscuit, Dinner but in every other respect, it is just confused. It understands your different voice tones and I always suggest that you find a different voice tone for each command as this will start the dog off on a good footing for understanding you. 

Grooming your dog is important, handling it in general is essential not only for your sake but for the Vet, the Groomer and people who visit. Spend 5 minutes a day brushing the dog, touching its paws, inside its ears, open and close the mouth etc. until it stops wriggling and fussing and accepts what you are doing as normal. Feel free to give a titbit every time you think the dog has done well letting you do something different to it. This will stop nipping, snapping, and wriggling, it will also get you familiar with how the dog feels, how hot the stomach normally is, if it has particularly sensitive spots or not, any lumps and bumps so should any changes occur you can immediately take action and get the dog to a Vet. If you bath the dog, then if it is inside in the family bath, put a towel down inside the bath to give the dog a firm footing and make sure you use warm water to wash it. Have a large bath towel ready to wrap the dog in and lift out of the bath. Give it a really good rub down then it will shake itself several times anyway. If necessary, dry its coat with a hairdryer on a low setting, and making sure you have the correct brushes, ask your Groomer the correct way of brushing and which brush to use for your particular dog. The dog Groomer will always clip the claws, it is not something I encourage you to do, but you can keep them down by making sure you walk the dog on hard ground for at least one or two walks a day. During the summer do rub oil into the pads and the same in winter. This prevents cracks and frost burn, but be sensible and do not walk the dog out if the weather is too hot, wait until it has cooled down a bit. As a trainer I will not walk any dogs in hot weather, my clients know why as I explain this, and accept that I am only concerned with the welfare of their pet.

Walks should be interesting and varied. Visit as many different places as you can. Get the dog used to every sight and sound you can think of. Let it meet and mix with other dogs, and get it used to being stroked by children in particular so it grows up with a nice, calm disposition. I emphasise here, you must be absolutely sure you know your dogs temperament and behaviour before allowing anybody to touch it. This can be achieved by enlisting the help of friends and family. Teaching the dog to travel well in the car can be very easy or the complete opposite. I always restrain the dog if it is an adult, if it is a pup I will suggest someone sits in the back with the pup and just keeps it feeling secure. Take it into the car and do short trips, sometimes just sit it the car with the engine on but do not move. The dog can not anticipate what you are going to do and will often be more attentive to you, therefore its mind is on other things rather than its fear of travelling. (Further information on this and travelling can be obtained if you require it.)

Get your dog into a good routine at home regarding walks, feeding etc. Talk to someone about the correct diet for your dog. Quite often dogs are fed at irregular times which causes digestive problems, often I find that dogs are not fed on Dog Food but are fed purely on whatever the family eats which is definitely not good. The dog requires the correct balance of proteins, vitamins and minerals which can only be obtained from correct feeding. Incorrect feeding can lead to behavioural problems. Overactive, or hyperactive, jumping up at the table, stealing food, going into the bins, etc. all these problems can be stopped before they start if you follow the simple rules I lay out in my Help Sheets. Think about this scenario: your dog is fed on scraps, it does not have its own feeding area with its own bowls where it can be left in peace to eat. You have a young child who is sitting on the floor playing, perhaps holding a biscuit. The dog, knowing no differently, grabs the biscuit from the child, who in turn may hit the dog. The dog turns round and growls or snaps and before you know it you have a potentially dangerous situation. The dog is branded as dangerous, your child could be put off dogs for life and all this caused by you not thinking ahead and doing the right thing by the dog. We like to eat in peace and quiet so why shouldn't the dog? Would you eat his food? I doubt it, so don't expect it to eat it ours and stay normal, it just doesn't work that way.

When you have a young dog it is easy to encourage it to be a bit noisy and allow it up on the furniture or to sleep on the bed etc. but this pup will grow into a large dog which can become quite pushy when you suddenly change the rules. Another thing that gets dogs branded as 'dangerous' is if the dog is asleep, or just on the couch and you want him down. Instead of avoiding this situation from the start by not allowing this behaviour, you should command him verbally to get down or off. An obedient dog will do just that. On the other hand, if you try to grab his collar from behind he will instinctively turn his head one way or another to snap at you, he may even achieve this and right away we have a problem. Never touch the dog by surprise, try to avoid touching it behind the collar or pulling it around, and avoid the base of the tail. These are dog attack points and the dog will react badly if you touch them quickly or without him realising you are there. It is pure self defence. It didn't know it was you, his owner, it could have been anything going for him and the reaction is to snap first and feel sorry later. During basic training I teach two things which can help to stop this. One is to always lightly touch the back of the neck as a release from training along with a release word. The other is when you are playing with the dog and the mouthing gets a bit out of hand, for you to pull your hand/arm away very quickly from the dog with a very loud "OW' sound, then ignore it. This will upset the dog who more often than not will be totally sorry and it will either go off and hide somewhere or want to lick you to make things better. As pups this is what they do, and they will act just the same with a human pup!

Never go overboard in petting and stroking the dog, try to have as little contact as possible physically, I do not mean you cannot cuddle the dog, or play with it, but make sure it understands why it is being handled. Give it a reason. When we rough play with the dog, and children are the worst offenders, it can lead to problems, so by all means, play with dog for a few minutes and before it can get wound up, then stop the game and leave the dog alone. Jealousy is another problem with dogs. If the dog has one owner, they guard them, they treat them as their mate. This can be good in some situations but not in others. They can be very nasty to visitors or other dogs and again this has to be stopped early on to prevent problems. As this is quite a complex matter, I have produced a Help Sheet on this subject which goes into the dogs behaviour patterns in detail. Jealousy, aggression, being left etc. which is available on request.

From the start get your pup organised into the routine which suits you all. My own advice is to spend the money on a 2 hour session with a trainer who will set you all off on the right road. If you all agree on the words you are going to use as commands, you must all use them so as not to confuse the dog. Children and pups can learn together and a good trainer will be more than willing to spend time with you, as a family, explaining any pitfalls and answering any questions you may have. If you put into practice what you have been taught the chances are you may never need a trainer again so it is well worth the initial cost. If you try and stumble through the upbringing of the pup and behavioural problems do set it, it will cost you a lot more to put them right so I look upon it as an investment. You can have many hours of pleasure and fun training your pup and the achievement you will feel as each problem is overcome is very gratifying, I can promise that. You will form a bond with the pup which will continue to grow and strengthen as the dog gets older and hopefully, your lives together will be spent in total harmony. No misunderstandings, just a happy,healthy, well adjusted dog which you, as an owner, can very proud of.

Before you embark on buying your new pup/dog really think hard about the things you can offer it. Take into account how much exercise and feeding your chosen breed will need; how noisy it is likely to be; any hereditary medical disorders which can appear; how much money you will need to spend on having it groomed regularly; the environment you live in; the patience you will need to handle the problems which can occur as it begins to settle in, chewing, barking etc.; make sure it is insured; make sure it wears a disc even if it is chipped; consider the implications of any changes you may make in your way of life e.g.: a single couple who get a pup, then have a child;

Kennel costs when you go on holiday; Veterinary treatment, just basic injections, wormers, flea treatments; The cost of Castration/Spaying which is something that should be done as a matter of course. Bitches that remain unspayed can get mammary cancer, can become pregnant; They get this wandering syndrome because their hormones are telling them it is mating time so you may even lose the dog; Dogs which remain entire can often be very bolshi, they become a nuisance to any bitch in Season by camping out on the doorstep of their chosen 'mate' and may possibly be responsible for a litter of unwanted pups, so all round, it makes sense to sort the dog/bitch out as soon as possible, life for all concerned will be much better.
Whilst on the subject of being a sensible owner, I cannot overlook asking every dog owner to make sure that when they take their dogs out that they have a collar on with a readable disc; the dog is kept on a leash in the appropriate areas; that you do not let the dog nor encourage the dog to foul on open green spaces be they private lawns or park areas without making sure you have a supply of bags to clean up any mess. There is a 1,000 fine for any owner who gets caught allowing their dog to foul on public property and privately owned gardens; if it is hot, try not to take the dog out, particularly in the car, even with windows open etc. the dog can soon overheat and you will have a tragedy on your hands; finally, do not take pups out until they have had all their injections and you have been given the all clear from the vet.

Training your dog can be fun. There are classes of mixed breeds, classes for specific Breeds or you can do one to one training with your own trainer who will still ensure that the dog is socialised and is put into all the situations necessary to give it a good all round education. The personal Trainer has the time to give to your dog. Classes are a bit more difficult because the pups can have their concentration disturbed by noisy dogs, they can be frightened by being amongst so many others, and it is difficult for the group teacher to cope with each dog individually and by breed and this is important. Breeds do have their little quirks, you cannot teach every breed the same way, in a class environment it can be difficult. I am not knocking classes, I would encourage you to find one, go along and watch what happens, make sure you are happy with the technique of the teacher, that you can get follow up help by 'phone if you need it, that sheets on your lessons are freely available and that all your problems can be sorted out by the teacher. If you are not happy, then ask a trainer to visit your home. You can tell immediately if you feel that this person will get on with your dog, the rapport will be instant, and you must ask all the questions you want, and hopefully get sensible answers. If you feel happy at this point, just have one training session and see how you feel, if the dog is happy and willing, fun has to be a great part of training and as a lot of behavioural problems are caused by lack of good basic obedience training, I personally emphasise that whilst bad habits can be stopped pretty quickly, you really need an all round obedient dog. If the dog does as you ask then no behavioural problems should arise. All dogs will have some little peculiarity that needs sorting out, but it should never be allowed to get to the stage that the habit is set. If you notice even the slightest hint of a problem, don't try and sort it out, get someone in straight away who should know what they're doing and discuss with them what action to take. 

As a decent and thoughtful dog owner, you should have no hesitation in starting private lessons with your dog/pup. The trainer can alleviate a lot of problem instantly, sort the dog out, then teach you what to do. A good trainer will not mind if you wish to accompany him/her and your dog on a training session - there will be nothing to hide. Always try and get a trainer who you know has a good reputation, word of mouth is how a good trainer works, no need to advertise, their work speaks volumes. Dog training is not about a strict, loud voiced, physical person bullying your dog, it is someone who talks to you, listens to you and corrects your mistakes in a kind and helpful manner. They genuinely love their work and the dog they are working with. In my case, if I feel anything 'strange' about the dog or the owners I will not work with them. I have to have a very strong bond so that the work I do is genuine and the dog and I have a good time. I know I get good results, but it does take help from the owners and family. If one person lets the side down you may as well forget it. 
Training is a serious business done correctly. I have a good reputation and I intend to keep it. If that means upsetting a few people along the way then TOUGH, my job takes a lot of time and thought, I do a great deal of research and paperwork and I will always be available to Clients, 7 days a week to help with any minor problems that crop between training sessions, as they will.

I hope you consider getting your dog or pup trained, choose whichever method suits you, class or individual. If you do decide to have individual training I do supply a full Training Manual for you to work on as you and the dog learn and progress. If, like me, you enjoy the challenge of getting something good done, you will enjoy working with your dog and this manual will help you make a good start.

Copyright 2001 Liane Nuttal

THE GENTLE LEADER HEADCOLLAR AND TRAINING SYSTEM FOR DOGS
It's the Double D Ring that makes the difference!

By Dr Peter Neville

(TRAINING MATTERS: Tackling pulling on the lead)

Laws of physics show that pressure causes counter-pressure, and in the world of dogs, this means that if a dog walks on a tight lead he will pull against the pressure being applied to his neck. It's as simple as that, and while dogs may want to pull ahead of their owners when out for a walk for many different reasons - to get to the park, to meet the dog on the corner of the street or because he feels it's his job to lead the group wherever they are going -, huge numbers of owners have terrible trouble trying to stop themselves from being pulled along uncontrollably by their dog or even pulled over! While there are many ways to train a dog not to pull on the lead, a highly innovative product designed especially for dogs has proved extraordinarily successful at doing just that, helping dogs and their owners to relax and enjoy their walks more and relieving many tired arms! All round the world overt the past decade, the Gentle Leader has given an invaluable starting point to owner's whose dogs have learned to pull against their ordinary collar or one of those horrible long outdated choke (check) chains and helped inspire a whole new era of kind effective training methods for dogs.

The Gentle Leader is much more than just a canine headcollar, it is actually scientifically designed to stop dogs from pulling by working on their natural reflex systems and to enable us to apply a form of control that mimics one of the important natural physical methods of social communication between friendly dogs in a pack.

The Gentle Leader was designed in the USA over ten years ago by one of the world's top human/companion animal relationship experts, Professor Bob Anderson and Ruth Foster, then President of the National Association of Obedience Instructors and has sold millions around the world. It has been available in the UK for over seven years and is now widely used by members of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, the Association of Pet Behaviour Counsellors, animal welfare societies and veterinary surgeons. It is available in three sizes and, unlike other headcollars, is fully adjustable to fit all sizes and breeds of dog to the contours of each individual's face (provided it has a nose - sorry, but Pekingese and very flat faced Boxers miss out on the benefits of the Gentle Leader!). Many other headcollars are not adjustable and brands rely on a range of sizes to cover the huge range of dog face shapes and sizes, with the result that so many don't fit snugly and ride up painfully into the dog's eyes or flap loosely and annoyingly across his lips.

Made of strong, soft, nylon webbing for maximum comfort, the Gentle Leader consists of a nose loop and neck strap which are joined together by a unique double 'd' ring. This ring is specially designed to transfer pressure from the nose loop to the neck strap, which fits high up on the dog's neck, just below the ears. Unlike a normal collar, the neck strap should be snugly fitted, so that it is barely possible to insert a finger between the strap and the dog's neck. When the dog reaches the end of the end of the lead while wearing his Gentle Leader, some of the tension is transferred via the Double D ring to the back of his neck. Puppies instinctively relax and go quiet when their mother picks them up by the scruff of their neck to transport them. If they were to struggle or wine they may well be jeopardising their lives as she may be moving them away from danger and need to transport them as quickly and quietly as possible. And so, as this reflex is usually maintained to some degree into adulthood, we find that the pulling dog also often relaxes automatically because of the mode of action the Gentle Leader, thus releasing the pressure on the lead to leave him calm and relaxed and walking gently through choice by his owner's side instead of pulling on the lead. The Double D Ring, which facilitates this marvellous reflex action is one of the main structural components that define the patent for the Gentle Leader, and the Gentle Leader is the only patented headcollar in the world because of it's unique effect. But more than stopping dogs from pulling on the lead, (which is, incidentally, one of the common difficulties that owners always cite in surveys of dog behaviour and training problems), we find that because the dog is relaxed and happy to be lead along on a Gentle Leader, he is also much more in contact with his owner and thus more capable of being trained in other areas of basic obedience.

But the Double D Ring and its reflex effects is not the whole story behind the success of this innovation. The nose loop is also important scientifically. It is evident when watching a group of dogs or wolves playing that a relaxing response occurs when one dog grasps the bridge of another dog's muzzle. When play gets out of hand and one wants to cool things down, or simply subdue the excitability of another lower ranking pack member, he will gently place his open mouth over the bridge of the other dog's nose and push down. The other dog usually responds by reducing the intensity of his part of the game, and in some cases ending the game completely. The muzzle grasping action is gentle and reassuring, never aggressive or injurious. When a dog pulls on the lead while wearing his Gentle Leader, pressure is applied across the same socially sensitive area, the bridge of the muzzle, and the nose loop pulls the nose down gently towards the dog's chest and holds it in much the same way as his pack mate might do in wanting to slow the game. And so the dog calms down through choice, sometimes very noticeably and very quickly, much to the owner's delight. With the Double D Ring simultaneously transfering end of lead pressure to the back of the dog's neck, both response points are being triggered with often what seems to be a miraculous effect on calming the previously excitable or frantically pulling dog. The dog's instinctive resistance to the redirected pressure causes him to stop pulling in order to relieve the pressure on his reflex points rather than pulling against the pressure.

The Gentle Leader also provides power steering for dogs. Obviously wherever a dog's head goes, the body has to follow and so being in control of the dog's head via the lead and Gentle Leader automatically gives an owner more control than with an ordinary collar. Virtually every other animal in the world is lead or managed by the head (imagine trying to control a horse or a camel with a neck collar!!) that one wonders why it became the norm to manage dogs by the neck! Aside from making walking on the lead so much easier, better control is especially important with dogs who develop certain types of behaviour problem. If a dog lunges towards people or other dogs, for example, the owner can gently steer him away without yanking and inflicting pain, discomfort or injury on the dog's neck. This is vital in the case of canine aggression which is often an emotional response to fear or apprehension about the approach of another dog or person. The reactive dog instantly becomes aroused and ready to protect himself using one or more of four main coping strategies - fight, flight, freeze or appease. While restrained on a lead the dog is really limited to a choice of fight or appease as he cannot run away and freezing is pointless as he is clearly visible to the threat. If the appease option fails to make the other dog ignore him or walk away and so give him relief from his feelings of apprehension, he may be forced to employ the fight option and growl, bark or threaten to attack the approaching dog or person, even if they haven't even looked at him yet!

On an ordinary collar or choke chain the owner may yank the dog back and tell him off if he lunges at the threat, but the pain he feels will usually only simply increase his feelings of apprehension and will make him more likely to lunge sooner next time he finds himself in a similar situation. By walking this type of problem dog on a Gentle Leader instead of a collar, trainers and behaviourists often find that if the dog lunges, the pressure that is automatically applied to the reflex and response points on his nose and neck helps to relax him and feel that his owner is managing the problem for him. The calm, communicative dog can then be rewarded for adopting other ways of coping with the apprehension, such as finally perceiving that approaching dogs/people are not threats at all and so can be ignored, or that a simple appeasing gesture, such as dropping the tail or ears for a second, will be all that is needed to say an acknowledging 'hi' to the other dog and deflect any potential threat in a quiet and normal doggy way. More than this, the dog no longer anticipates the formerly associated pain and discomfort that used to be inflicted involuntarily by his owner via his collar or chain at the mere sight of another dog/person. With practice and a steady supply of friendly dogs/people to encounter an aggressive dog wearing a Gentle Leader can often be rehabilitated very quickly indeed, but best of all, such problems are so easily prevented if a puppy or young dog is walked on a Gentle Leader from the day he first goes out on a lead.

Every Gentle Leader is supplied with full fitting instructions and a self-help training advice sheet. Correct snug fitting, like when we fit a shoe, is essential for the headcollar's unique dual action to have full effect. Too loose and it will rub and move around, too tight and it will cause discomfort. The tighter the neck strap, the looser the nose loop can be and it will sit further back from the corners of the dog's mouth, making it very comfortable to wear, and enabling the dog to drink, pant, bark, eat and play until any tension is applied via the lead. It is quite normal for a dog to resist the Gentle Leader at first as the sensation of the nose loop on the face and neck strap may feel strange initially. The nose loop is also visible to them and they may try to paw it off, but most dogs soon settle down. It is often the case that the more a dog protests in the first few moments, the better he ultimately accepts it, a situation also found when fitting a headcollar to a young horse for the first time. After fitting the Gentle Leader the dog should be taken for a short, interesting walk in order to take his mind off the strange feeling of wearing a head collar. He should be encouraged to walk and follow his owner on a loose lead and encouraged to walk along with treats or praise, never dragged or forced and most soon realise how much more comfortable a Gentle Leader is to wear than pulling along and being pulled on a normal collar. Once a dog is used to wearing his Gentle Leader, he can be walked and trained far more easily, and is also very helpful when extra calm restraint is needed, for example, for grooming, visiting the vets, administering eye or ear drops etc. All in all, the Gentle Leader really is a remarkable product.

DOG OWNERS:
'For details and mail order facilities for the award-winning, patented Gentle Leader Headcollar and training system for dogs in the UK and mainland Europe, and for other behaviour and training products, books, videos, education courses etc please visit pet behaviourist Dr Peter Neville's website

DOG TRAINING CLUBS:
'For special trade supply details for the award-winning, patented Gentle Leader Headcollar and training system for dogs in the UK and mainland Europe, and for details of other behaviour and training products, books, videos, education courses etc please call Dr Peter Neville on 44+ (0)1747 871258 or EMAIL.

PETSTORES:
'For trade supply details for the award-winning, patented Gentle Leader Headcollar and training system for dogs in the UK and mainland
Europe, please visit manufacturers Sinclair Pet Products site or call Sales Director, Stuart Hendry on 44+ (0)1427 810231

THE GENTLE LEADER® offers you a whole new concept in the control, training and management of your dog. No matter what the breed, size or age of your dog, the Gentle Leader provides 'power steering', kind control and effective leadership, and makes training at home quick, simple and fun. Over one million dogs and their owners have benefitted from the Gentle Leader in the USA alone!

It’s the only patented canine headcollar in the world because of its unique action and effect on the way your dog behaves and communicates.

GENTLE LEADER ...how it works
THE GENTLE LEADER STOPS YOUR DOG PULLING ON THE LEAD . . . SCIENTIFICALLY!

when their mother picks them up and pressure is applied to the scruff of their necks. This enables her to transport them with minimal fuss to escape from enemies or threats. The neckstrap of the Gentle Leader causes this instinctive relaxation response by exerting pressure on the back of your dog’s neck when he tries to pull forwards.

Dogs of any age often respond instinctively and relax when the pack leader gently grasps their muzzle with his mouth. This demonstrates the pack leader’s dominance, but in a reassuring manner, not an aggressive one. The Gentle Leader’s noseloop encircles your dog’s nose and jaw and acts in the same manner as a pack-leader’s mouth. 

Dogs have a natural instinct to pull against pressure and dogs waIked on choke or regular collars still pull, even though pressure on the throat causes pain and choking and even though their owners rnay yank, tug and shout to try and stop them.

The Gentle Leader does not choke your dog. It is scientifically designed to direct your dog’s entire body by controlling his head and nose. And wherever his nose goes, his body must surely follow!

The Gentle Leader dissuades your dog from pulling on the lead by transferring the pressure of his efforts to the back of his neck via the neckstrap, while the pressure of the noseloop communicates your natural leadership. Your dog’s instinctive resistance to these redirected pressures causes him to stop pulling to relieve the pressure at the back of the head and to relax and walk easily by your side. 

GENTLE LEADER. . . THE KIND TRAINING KIT FOR USE
AT HOME AND AT TRAINING CLASSES!

The Gentle Leader calms boisterous dogs of all sizes and enables you to train your dog at home and at training classes to be sociable and obedient calmly, quickly and effectively. Gentle Leader helps you train with positive techniques and without the fear and confusion that dogs often associate with choke chains. Please refer to the special Training Guide.

This has been written by our three canine behaviour, training and veterinary specialists to guide you through training your dog to be obedient and calmly responsive to your commands using the Gentle Leader. All you will need aside from your Gentle Leader to train your dog is his usual lead, a supply of his favourite small titbits to use as rewards, a positive, happy and rewarding attitude and a little patience, especially with young dogs

CLICK HERE FOR BASIC TRAINING TECHNIQUES USING THE GENTLE LEADER

THE GENTLE LEADER

Please visit Dr. Peter Neville’s site if you are interested in obtaining a diploma or doing other courses at the Centre of Applied Pet Ethology

Why Dogs misbehave, what we can do to prevent this, Good Training

There are many reasons for Dogs who misbehave, we live in a very hurried and often stressing society. We buy our dog with all good intentions, be it from a breeder, RSPCA, or other Dog Rescue Centres. A lot of habits are ingrained into the particular breed you may have chosen and often you do not go into the specific breed background as much as you should. Ideally you need to talk to other owners, independent people etc. and not always rely on what the breeder is telling you. Dogs from RSPCA/Rescue Centres etc. always have a story. Unfortunately, very few organisations are happy to tell you the background of the dog which is so very necessary to know if you are to help it settle and lead a normal life. You must think of all the pros and cons about owning a dog, what you can offer it in the way of time and company, the fact that it will need a lot of exercise, it will drop dog hairs on your lovely furniture and carpets, run rampant through the house with wet paws etc. it should be a part of the family and it needs to be, but so often I have to attend to dogs who are treated purely as status symbols, or the addition that makes the perfect family. The dog is excluded from the family environment, is not allowed to mix freely, and whilst it may be well looked after and loved, it misses out on being a part of the pack. Obedience and training are not really on the agenda because nobody has the time or patience to spend with a little puppy who basically just wants to play. Yet, this is the time that a few minutes a day spent teaching the dog just the basic Sit, Stay, Down, Wait etc. commands will pay such dividends in the long run. An obedient and well trained dog will never be a dog with behavioural problems. They arise because confusion is caused by a lack of communication between dog and owner. We tend to talk too much to the dog as if we are having a conversation. The dog really doesn't understand much of what is said, it may pick up on keywords like Walk, Biscuit, Dinner but in every other respect, it is just confused. It understands your different voice tones and I always suggest that you find a different voice tone for each command as this will start the dog off on a good footing for understanding you.

Grooming your dog is important, handling it in general is essential not only for your sake but for the Vet, the Groomer and people who visit. Spend 5 minutes a day brushing the dog, touching its paws, inside its ears, open and close the mouth etc. until it stops wriggling and fussing and accepts what you are doing as normal. Feel free to give a titbit every time you think the dog has done well letting you do something different to it. This will stop nipping, snapping, and wriggling, it will also get you familiar with how the dog feels, how hot the stomach normally is, if it has particularly sensitive spots or not, any lumps and bumps so should any changes occur you can immediately take action and get the dog to a Vet. If you bath the dog, then if it is inside in the family bath, put a towel down inside the bath to give the dog a firm footing and make sure you use warm water to wash it. Have a large bath towel ready to wrap the dog in and lift out of the bath. Give it a really good rub down then it will shake itself several times anyway. If necessary, dry its coat with a hairdryer on a low setting, and making sure you have the correct brushes, ask your Groomer the correct way of brushing and which brush to use for your particular dog. The dog Groomer will always clip the claws, it is not something I encourage you to do'. but you can keep them down by making sure you walk the dog on hard ground for at least one or two walks a day. During the summer do rub oil into the pads and the same in winter This prevents cracks and frost burn, but be sensible and do not walk the dog out if the weather is too hot, wait until it has cooled down a bit. As a trainer I will not walk any dogs in hot weather, my clients know why as I explain this, and accept that I am only concerned with the welfare of their pet. Walks should be interesting and varied. Visit as many different places as you can. Get the dog used to every sight and sound you can think of. Let it meet and mix with other dogs, and get it used to being stroked by children in particular so it grows up with a nice, calm disposition. I emphasise here, you must be absolutely sure you know your dog’s temperament and behaviour before allowing anybody to touch it. This can be achieved by enlisting the help of friends and family. Teaching the dog to travel well in the car can be very easy or the complete opposite. I always restrain the dog if it is an adult, if it is a pup I will suggest someone sits in the back with the pup and just keeps it feeling secure. Take it into the car and do short trips, sometimes just sit it the car with the engine on but do not move. The dog can not anticipate what you are going to do and will often be more attentive to you, therefore its mind is on other things rather than its fear of travelling.

Get your dog into a good routine at home regarding walks, feeding etc. Talk to someone about the correct diet for your dog. Quite often dogs are fed at irregular times which causes digestive problems, often I find that dogs are not fed on Dog Food but are fed purely on whatever the family eats which is definitely not good. The dog requires the correct balance of proteins, vitamins and minerals which can only be obtained from correct feeding. Incorrect feeding can lead to behavioural problems. Overactive, or hyperactive, jumping up at the table, stealing food, going into the bins etc. all these problems can be stopped before they start if you follow the simple rules of basic training. Think about this scenario: your dog is fed on scraps, it does not have its own feeding area with its own bowls where it can be left in peace to eat. You have a young child who is sitting on the floor playing, perhaps holding a biscuit. The dog, knowing no differently, grabs the biscuit from the child, who in turn may hit the. dog. The dog turns round and growls or snaps and before you know it you have a potentially dangerous situation. The dog is branded as dangerous, your child could be put off dogs for life and all this caused by you not thinking ahead and doing the right thing by the dog. We like to eat in peace and quiet so why shouldn't the dog? Would you eat his food? I doubt it, so don't expect it to eat it ours and stay normal, it just doesn't work that way.

When you have a young dog it is easy to encourage it to be a bit noisy and allow it up on the furniture or to sleep on the bed etc. but this pup will grow into a large dog which can become quite pushy when you suddenly change the rules. Another thing that gets dogs branded as 'dangerous' is if the dog is asleep, or just on the couch and you want him down. Instead of avoiding this situation from the start by not allowing the behaviour, you should command him verbally to get down or off. An obedient dog will do just that. On the other hand, if you try to grab his collar from behind he will instinctively turn his head one way or another to snap at you, he may even achieve this and right away we have a problem. Never touch the dog by surprise, try to avoid touching it behind the collar or pulling it around, and avoid the base of the tail. These are dog attack points and the dog will react badly if you touch them quickly or without him realising you are there. It is pure self defence. It didn't know it was you, his owner, it could have been anything going for him and the reaction is to snap first and feel sorry later. During basic training I teach two things which can help to stop this. One is to always lightly touch the back of the neck as a release from training along with a release word. The other is when you are playing with the dog and the mouthing gets a bit out of hand, for you to pull your hand/arm away very quickly from the dog with a very loud "OW' sound, then ignore it. This will upset the dog who more often than not will be totally sorry and it will either go off and hide somewhere or want to lick you to make things better. As pups this is what they do, and they will act just the same with a human pup!

Never go overboard in petting and stroking the dog, try to have as little contact as possible physically, I do not mean you cannot cuddle the dog, or play with it, but make sure it understands why it is being handled. Give it a reason. When we rough play with the dog, and children are the worst offenders, it can lead to problems, so by all means, play with dog for a few minutes and before it can get wound up, then stop the game and leave the dog alone. Jealousy is another problem with dogs. If the dog has one owner, they guard them, they treat them as their mate. This can be good in some situations but not in others. They can be very nasty to visitors or other dogs and again this has to be stopped early on to prevent problems. As this is quite a complex matter.

From the start get your pup organised into the routine which suits you all. My own advice is to spend the money on a 2 hour session with a trainer who will set you all off on the right road. lf you all agree on the words you are going to use as commands, you must all use them so as not to confuse the dog. Children and pups can learn together and a good trainer will be more than willing to spend time with you, as a family, explaining any pitfalls and answering any questions you may have. If you put into practice what you have been taught the chances are you may never need a trainer again so it is well worth the initial cost. If you try and stumble through the upbringing of the pup and behavioural problems do set it, it will cost you a lot more to put them right so I look upon it as an investment. You can have many hours of pleasure and fun training your pup and the achievement you will feel as each problem is overcome is very gratifying, I can promise that. You will form a bond with the pup which will continue to grow and strengthen as the dog gets older and hopefully, your lives together will be spent in total harmony. No misunderstandings, just a happy,healthy, well adjusted dog which you, as an owner, can very proud of.

Before you embark on buying your new pup/dog really think hard about the things you can offer it. Take into account how much exercise and feeding your chosen breed will need; how noisy it is likely to be; any hereditary medical disorders which can appear; how much money you will need to spend on having it groomed regularly; the environment you live in; the patience you will need to handle the problems which can occur as it begins to settle in, chewing, barking etc.; make sure it is insured; make sure it wears a disc even if it is chipped; consider the implications of any changes you may make in your way of life eg: a single couple who get a pup, then have a child;

Kennel costs when you go on holiday; Veterinary treatment, just basic injections, wormers, flea treatments; The cost of Castration/Spaying which is something that should be done as a matter of course. Bitches that remain unspayed can get mammary cancer can become pregnant; They get this wandering syndrome because their hormones are telling them it is mating time so you may even lose the dog; Dogs which remain entire can often be very bolshi, they become a nuisance LO any bitch in Season by camping out on the doorstep of their chosen 'mate' and may possibly be responsible for a litter of unwanted pups, so all round, it makes sense to sort the dog/bitch out as soon as possible, life for all concerned will be much better.

Whilst on the subject of being a sensible owner, I cannot overlook asking every dog owner to make sure that when they take their dogs out that they have a collar on with a readable disc; the dog is kept on a leash in the appropriate areas; that you do not let the dog nor encourage the dog to foul on open green spaces be they private lawns or park areas without making sure you have a supply of bags to clean up any mess. There is a 1,000 fine for any owner who gets caught allowing their dog to foul on public property and privately owned gardens; if it is hot, try not to take the dog out, particularly in the car, even with windows open etc. the dog can soon overheat and you will have a tragedy on your hands; finally, do not take pups out until they have had all their injections and you have been given the all clear from the vet.

Training your dog can be fun. There are classes of mixed breeds, classes for specific Breeds or you can do one to one training with your own trainer who will still ensure that the dog is socialised and is put into all the situations necessary to give it a good all round education. The personal Trainer has the time to give to your dog. Classes are a bit more difficult because the pups can have their concentration disturbed by noisy dogs, they can be frightened by being amongst so many others, and it is difficult for the group teacher to cope with each dog individually and by breed and this is important. Breeds do have their little quirks, you cannot teach every breed the same way, in a class environment it can be difficult. I am not knocking classes, I would encourage you to find one, go along and watch what happens, make sure you are happy with the technique of the teacher, that you can get follow up help by 'phone if you need it, that sheets on your lessons are freely available and that all your problems can be sorted out by the teacher. If you are not happy, then ask a trainer to visit your home. You can tell immediately if you feel that this person will get on with your dog, the rapport will be instant, and you must ask all the questions you want, and hopefully get sensible answers. If you feel happy at this point, just have one training session and see how you feel, if the dog is happy and willing, fun has to be a great part of training. and as a lot of behavioural problems are caused by lack of good basic obedience training, I personally emphasise that whilst bad habits can be stopped pretty quickly., you really need an all round obedient dog. If the dog does as you ask then no behavioural problems should arise. All dogs will have some little peculiarity that needs sorting out, but it should never be allowed to get to the stage that the habit is set. If you notice even the slightest hint of a problem, don't try and sort it out, get someone in straight away who should know what they're doing and discuss with them what action to take.

As a decent and thoughtful dog owner, you should have no hesitation in starting private lessons with your dog/pup. The trainer can alleviate a lot of problem instantly, sort the dog out, then teach you what to do. A good trainer will not mind if you wish to accompany him/her and your dog on a training session - there will be nothing to hide. Always try and get a trainer who you know has a good reputation, word of mouth is how a good trainer works, no need to advertise, their work speaks volumes. Dog training is not about a strict, loud voiced, physical person bullying your dog, it is someone who talks to you, listens to you and corrects your mistakes in a kind and helpful manner. They genuinely love their work and the dog they are working with. In my case., if I feel anything 'strange about the dog or the owners I will not work with them. I have to have a very strong bond s~ that the work I do is genuine and the dog and I have a good time. I know I get good results, but it does take help from the owners and family. If one person lets the side down you may as well forget it.

Training is a serious business done correctly. I have a good reputation and I intend to keep it. If that means upsetting a few people along the way then TOUGH, my job takes a lot of time and thought, I do a great deal of research and paperwork and I will always be available to Clients, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to help with any minor problems that crop between training sessions - as they will.

I hope you consider getting your dog or pup trained, choose whichever method suits you, class or individual. If you do decide to have individual training I do supply a full Training Manual for you to work on as you and the dog learn and progress. If, like me, you enjoy the challenge of getting something good done, you will enjoy working with your dog and this manual will help you make a good start.

Copyright 2001 L.Nuttal for AHH

www.animalholistichealth.com

This is a wonderful question, and I‘m going to tell you about a model from the latest psychological discoveries on how a child learns, which is very useful when applied to dogs and puppies.

Firstly, all intelligent beings such as dogs and cats and horses try to make meaning of their environment, or to put it in another way, try to understand their environment, in order to be able to manipulate it, to be able to respond, and to take some evasive action if necessary.

In order to make a meaning, you need to look for patterns in your environment - what stays the same, and what changes, and how these things might be linked with your actions.

So, to begin with, a puppy or a child will simply record everything that happens to it, like it was making a 3D movie with sound and smell and feelings, inside it‘s head and then automatically looks for any patterns that could give it clues as to what is linked to what.

As an example, a puppy that is left in a room goes to the toilet, and then goes about it‘s puppy business for another half hour or so. The owner comes back and yells at it. The pup, trying to find meaning, begins to link owner comes back to "I get yelled at and I feel bad". In it‘s personal movie, the time frame difference is too big for it to link anything else to it, including any of the actions that preceded the owner‘s return, such as chewing a slipper, lying quietly in it‘s basket for a time, scratching, howling, or going to the toilet.

This happens on a very ongoing basis in dog training. We are trying to present words and signals to an untrained dog, which it will have to link in it‘s mind not just with some events, but eventually make the cross over into actions that it will have to take in return.

Whilst this is going on, the dog‘s mind faithfully records everything that went on at the time, all the sounds, smells, feelings, tastes, sights, and further includes internal information about physiology such as hunger, pain, discomfort as well as states of mind and emotions. It will check how all of these are the same, or different, and look for patterns to give the whole situation a meaning.

This nebulous "everything" which constitutes the dog’s environment very much includes the owner, their behaviours, their voice and demeanor, and their physiological and emotional states.

If you understand this thoroughly, you can see what has happened in the following examples, all of which are very, very common complaints beginners have about their dogs when training:

"At dog club, he walks to heel nicely. When we‘re out, he pulls."

"Why does he obey me and when my husband uses the same commands, he doesn‘t?"

"Why does he do it perfectly at home, but not at dog club?"

"In the garden, he comes when I call him. But not in the local park." (Or vice versa!)

So now you will understand why these basic rules have always been applied to training a dog.

1. Never train your dog if you are upset or unwell (this is, of course, unless you‘re always upset and unwell, in which case your dog would be amazed and unable to perform on the odd occasions when you‘re happy!). Keep your words, your gestures, your movements, the sound of your voice and how, why and when you initiate rewards or punishments as the same as possible - this makes it easier for your dog to detect patterns and help him to remember and to understand.

2. Begin the teaching of an exercise in a familiar place without any distractions. If you look back on our "the dog‘s memory is like a movie" example, this becomes obvious.

Remember the dog is looking for patterns, what is different, and what stays the same. If you can keep as much of the environment the same (a familiar place) and unchanging (without visitors coming in or out, other pets interfering, spouses giving unhelpful comments from the sideline, telephones ringing, kids screaming, cats meowing etc), the new pattern you‘re trying to get the dog to understand will be much, much clearer to the dog and much more easily detected - "Ah, if I do x, I‘ll get y".

3. When the dog can do whatever it is that you‘re teaching reliably under these conditions, begin to vary the environment slowly and gently. For example, if you are teaching the sit command, and your dog has been taught to do this in the kitchen, and he or she does it reliably in the kitchen, take the dog out into the garden and do it there. What you will find is that the dog seems to be unsure of what is required when you change the location, may behave as though he or she has never heard of the exercise before, or may be distracted - he or she might be looking around, not paying attention, sniffing, listening.

This is completely normal and part of every dog‘s learning, and this is what you do:

Transferring Learning Through Environments

a. You get the dog‘s attention.

b. You use the same way the exercise was originally introduced and taught once again, as though it was the first time you attempted it - only this time, your dog will remember much quicker.

So, for example in the "sit" exercise, out in the garden you might find your dog responding as though he‘d never heard the word before, although he‘s been really good in the kitchen. In a way, he has never heard the word before - at least not in this specific situation.

So, to remind him, you go back to how you taught this before and you may pretend you‘re teaching it again - say, by using a food treat on the end of the nose with the hand signal. This will help your dog remember and it ties in the learning from the old situation (the movie you made your kitchen) to the new situation (the movie in the garden).

c. The dog will "remember" the exercise and after a short practice, will be able to do the exercise in the new situation.

After that, you go through the same process in a number of locations, each one a little more difficult, with more distractions present, along the lines of -

Environmental Practice Progression

1. Inside your own home

2. In your garden, drive, yard or pavement.

3. A quiet place in the local park or in a field.

4. A local park where there may be a few people in the distance.

5. A local park that‘s quite busy.

6. Near or at a dog show; near a football match; in a town centre.

7. Anywhere regardless of distractions.

If you are going to a dog training club, this is a highly distractive environment indeed and to begin with, you can fully expect your dog not to perform to his or her best ability there; if you go every week however, the dog will "get used" to it, and if you do your practice structured as outlined above, your dog will be much better placed to be able to bring out the training in that situation too.

4. You need to practice. Everyone gets a bit "rusty" if they don‘t practice basics once in a while; every concert pianist practices scales every so often.

Circumstances and situations change, and the dog grows, learns and develops. Therefore it‘s inevitable that sometimes things that were learned become a little rusty, responses slower, or unexpected behaviours creep in.

In the later stages of living with your dog, keep on the look out for such situations and simply go back and do a little light practice on the exercise in question to remind the dog and yourself.

A lot of people suffer from the delusion that learning is on, or off, like light switch - either you know it, or you don‘t.

If you‘ve ever been engaged in any kind of learning activity, be it learning a new language, how to drive a car, ride a horse, type, play a musical instrument, you will know that very few people ever achieve a state where you "know it", i.e. you can do something absolutely perfectly under any kind of circumstance at any time.

That‘s a peak state and even top athletes and performers, who devote their entire lives to attaining such peak performance, rarely reach it or remain "in the zone" for any length of time.

So learning is not a black and white thing, but a rainbow spectrum ranging from complete non-understanding and incompetence, via under-standing and competence, to mastery and perfection, and if this is so for humans, then we should expect no more or no less of our dogs.

In my experience, dogs progress in whatever exercise you‘re teaching them, through the following stages.

A. Introducing The Exercise.

That is literally the first time you take your dog to a quiet place and say to him, "Well, Fido, today we‘re going to begin the (sit, stay, retrieve, scent etc)". How a dog responds to this depends on many variables, such as temperament and prior training experience amongst others. This is in many ways a key moment, which sets the tone for most everything, that is to come in the future and therefore needs to be handled with some degree of caution and empathy.

Here are some examples of what can happen:

a. Some dogs react with a blank look on their faces and little or no enthusiasm - these types of dogs will have to be shown patiently many times, and you will need to motivate them throughout their training with much fun, and food, and lavish rewards and praise. They will also need a lot more from you as regards your sustaining belief that they can, in fact, do this. Generally, these dogs take a little longer than average to learn the exercise but are usually very reliable once they‘ve understood.

b. Some dogs react with great enthusiasm. These types of dog will learn very quickly, but their owners should be aware that just because they‘re quick to grasp something they still need to practice regularly in order to really integrate the exercise.

Sadly, it‘s the quick dogs that often get into trouble later on, because their owners expected far too much of them, far too soon.

The challenge for the owner is two-fold: firstly, they need to find different ways of making practise fun and entertaining so that the dog doesn‘t get bored and loses interest; and secondly, they have to stay on their toes as regarding the need to practice and the need to watch for the latest variations their dogs might have added to the exercise!

c. Some dogs react with fear. They may try to run away and hide, lie down belly & paws up, or simply look worried and uncomfortable. To each new exercise you might bring to them, they respond with an instant, "Oh no! I can‘t possibly do that!" type of attitude.

In a way, these are the hardest ones to train, because as the owner you‘re constantly having to keep your enthusiasm sky high for the both of you, as well as your belief that "Yes, you can do this, it‘s easy."

Much patience is required for these dogs, but what you will get is in each exercise a magic "turning point" at which the dog realises that it really can be done.

Those dogs then will become very enthusiastic about the exercise, and very, very reliable indeed when executing it because they take so much pleasure in their own accomplishments.

As a side effect, often their general outlook on life improves as a result of the training.

d. Some dogs react with negativity - "I‘m not going to do this and you can‘t make me!"

This is actually pretty rare to start off with, and even rarer now that we have motivational and kind dog training methods. I mean, if there‘s lots of fun, food and praise to be had, the dog would have to be pretty stupid not to co-operate, wouldn‘t it. However, especially with dogs that may have had bad experiences with heavy-handed training methods in the past, you could conceivably have such a reaction.

Keeping everything light hearted, offering some food, or having (or borrowing) another dog that would most willingly do something in return for a juicy tit bit or two, plus an ongoing attitude of "learning is fun" will overcome this initial response. Most importantly, don‘t put them under pressure. They‘ve got to learn to want to work with you in their own good time.

e. Lastly, there‘s the kind of dog that goes "scatty" - jumping around wildly, trying to turn the learning session into a wrestling match, or just generally "being silly".

This is the kind of response that indicates a low ability to deal with stress, and a quick mind. Here it helps to keep initial training sessions very brief, but to do everything lots and lots and lots of times all through the day - just a couple of sits, then leave it, wash the dishes, then do a couple more, etc. Do avoid trying to force such a dog to behave or be quieter - the more you push, the more they wind up, the less is learned.

What this dog needs isn‘t discipline, but to learn self-discipline - and that takes time. Be patient and trust in the fact that the older the dog gets, the calmer it will become (especially now that you‘ve realised that trying to "control" it would only make matters worse), and the more practice you will be able to do. The whole thing then becomes a virtuous circle and these dogs make wonderful progress.

In this introduction stage, all we‘re doing is to get the dog used to the frame of the exercise, and may begin to teach it. Three or four attempts at whatever it is that you‘re aiming to teach is usually enough for this stage, and it lasts for about a week if you train every day, although there‘s of course massive variations depending on the individual dog and - of course! - the owner.

B. Moving Into The Response Phase

In all standard exercises, the dog is meant to respond to a request by some kind of action or abstention from action (sitting still would be an example of that) which also requires active participation (the dog has to think about sitting still and keep doing that, rather than everything else he or she might prefer to do instead).

In order to help the dog understand what it is that we want, it is customary to praise or reward the dog when the correct response occurs.

At the beginning of each new exercise, the stronger and more obvious your praise and/or reward is, the easier it is for the dog to pick out the pattern that got such a positive reaction.

For example, if you were to pat the floor and say, "Lie Down, Fido, lie down." and Fido does, an instant exclamation of "Oh, wow, yes, that‘s right, that‘s brilliant, you did Lie Down." will help the dog understand after a few repetitions.

To really learn the exercise reliably, however, this needs to be repeated, and these repetitions are known as Practice.

Repetitions turn a behaviour you have to think about into unconscious behaviour - this is the difference between thinking, as you get into your car to drive off, "Slowly release the clutch and slowly push down on the accelerator" and just getting in your car and letting your unconscious mind see to all that whilst you are free to think of where you‘re going.

Each individual differs in how many repetitions they require to turn something into an unconscious behaviour - how long did it take you before you noticed one day that you‘re not worried about stalling the car any more?

Just because your dog can do something, it doesn‘t mean it‘s learned to the degree that the behaviour has become unconscious, immediate, and completely integrated.

There is no short cut to practice.

You will have to put in time and effort if you wish to create responses that are fully reliable. Sorry about that!

To help you through this phase, you might like to chart your and your dog‘s progress through the following stages just for fun:

- Unconscious incompetence: you don‘t even know that there‘s something you can‘t yet do.

- conscious incompetence; now you‘ve tried it and you‘ve realised that you can‘t do it yet!

- conscious competence; you can do it now, but only if you really concentrate and work hard at it; and lastly

- unconscious competence; i.e. you just do it without having to think about it.

C. Practicing The Response

Practice makes perfect, and perfect practice makes even more perfect. Every learning, from driving a car to touch typing, has an aspect of practice in it to make it into unconscious behaviour that comes "naturally".

Practice does not have to be drill. Practice can be fun and an enjoyable part of your day together if you allow yourself that mind set, and once the dog responds with understanding, you can incorporate your practice seamlessly into your daily lives together.

A sit can be practiced a hundred times all through the day - sit before you go out in the garden, before I put the lead on, before you jump into the car, before you jump out, before I take the lead off, before you eat your dinner, etc, etc, etc.

As an exercise, stop and think of when it would be natural and useful to incorporate walking with you, coming to you, lying down, standing still.

Although all dogs are different, there are a number of common behaviours that most dogs will display sooner or later in training. I thought it might be nice if I told you about these at this point, because understanding these will help your training and teaching a great deal. The most globally important of these is ...

The Push Me - Pull You Principle

As Mr. Isaac Newton observed very correctly, for every action there is a reaction. For every force you exert on your dog, your dog will exert some force back.

Try this exercise: push on your dog‘s shoulders, downwards, without saying anything. You will notice that the dog will brace itself against that push. Now push the dog sideways, either against the hips or against the shoulders, and once again you will notice that the dog braces itself and pushes back. Now, put the dog on the lead, and pull slowly forward, or back, or to the left, or to the right.

Your dog will always pull in the opposite direction.

Using this very principle, thousands of dogs all over the world are being trained, as you read these very words, to pull on their leads like shire horses, to fight being pushed into a sit or squashed into a down, to learn to resist coming back when called as though their life depended upon it.

An elegant and experienced dog teacher (as you are about to become with a bit of practice) does not fight with their dogs in this way.

It is not only counter productive but also completely unnecessary.

Whatever you want your dog to do, whatever position you want him to be in, leading or guiding him into that position is one thousand times more effective than pushing, pulling and shoving; dogs do put up with it, but it makes the teaching take longer, it builds resistance in the dog to the exercise in question, and leads to totally unnecessary struggles.

This "push me - pull you" principle is also in action as regards to the dog backing away from you as opposed to following you.

Try this exercise (preferably with an untrained, relaxed dog): don‘t say anything, don‘t give any eye contact, and walk towards the dog. The dog will most likely either back away or become wary or stressed. Now, in the same way, back away from the dog. The dog will now move towards you, follow you, as it were.

We will encounter variations on these two basic responses in all the training scenarios, and you will be able to see them every time from now on you watch other people with their dogs. Whether it is mad pulling on the lead, with the owner and dog in a tug‘o‘war scenario (and watch how some dogs don‘t just pull forward, they pull sideways away from the owner as well!), to some poor person trying to "catch" their dog in the local park by creeping towards it, and then lunging to catch it - take a note of all the "Push Me - Pull You" scenarios you can see every day all around you, and make a decision that you‘ll do better than that.

Lastly, this principle can be found also in situations that could be termed "mental combat".

A dog guarding a bone, for example, if approached aggressively, might well respond back with aggression. The same dog, when approached with a friendly attitude and the offer of a trade, will in return not show any aggression either.

Generally, whenever you are involved in some kind of mental or physical wrestling match, you‘re probably looking at a variety of "push me - pull you".

If you are already involved in these kinds of activities, the first step is to stop your action.

As soon as you do this, the dog will also stop it‘s reaction in turn.

In practice that means a loose lead if your dog pulls, and to stand still rather than to chase your dog if it runs away, as in the two examples above.

Now the situation has changed to one of indecision instead of dead locked combat, and now you can begin encouraging your dog with treats and with words to change his or her behaviour, and you can begin the business of really teaching your dog what you both need.

Copyright 2000 Silvia Hartmann

The first thing you should do when you get your pup home is to take it immediately outside into the garden and stay with it while it goes to the toilet.

Remember also, pups tend to go to the toilet within half an hour of eating or waking up and if it does not give you a signal such as walking round in circles or running back and forth, then just automatically take it out every half hour or so until it understands what you want.

Do not put paper down in the house. The dog will go on that without fail but you have taught it that it is okay to go inside the house which is BAD.

if it does make a mess inside, clean it up with water and WHITE vinegar, then spray the area with a mixture of water and Bicarb. of Soda. This takes the ammonia smell away and starts to teach the dog it is wrong to go indoors. NEVER shout at the dog. If it makes a mess, put it outside, in its bed or crate while you clean up. Shouting serves no purpose at all, nor does rubbing its nose in the mess. Never raise your voice in anger, and avoid confrontations with the dog. If it does something you do not like, ignore the dog completely. DO NOT hit the pup for any reason at all. It will be confused but it will know something is wrong. If you are consistent with all your house rules, the dog will soon learn what it can and cannot do.

Buy your pup a Kong to occupy it. This can be stuffed with food and left with the dog when you go out and it is left alone. On your return remove the Kong and replace with one other toy. Get your pup used to being handled, having its mouth opened, its ears messed with, and paws so when you do take it to a Groomer, it is quite happy to be touched and this in turn makes things much easier for the person who has to clip and bath it. It is also helpful if the Vet ever needs to check it over.

At the moment you have a very small, cuddly puppy which is endearing. You will pick it up, snuggle it, pet it to bits, and generally it will get away with blue murder. Remember in a few short months this pup will be on its way to becoming a big, sturdy dog. Do not encourage it, as a pup, to go onto furniture or jump up. Teach it now what behaviour you will expect in the future. You cannot eradicate mistakes you make now easily, so don’t make any.